DIY 3D laser scanner. So what is the difference between the CowTech and BQ DIY version

Good day, brainwashes! Homemade which will be discussed in this article is a 3D laser scanner with open source called "FabScan", developed, by the way, as a bachelor's thesis.

Corps of its own brain scanner I made them from MDF sheets and a few more fasteners, and to show what I got, I decided to write this guide.

So, let's go!

Step 1: We will need

What FabScan recommends:
- Arduino Uno
- A4988 driver for stepper motor
— shield for the 3D scanner “FabScan”
— 5mW laser module
— bipolar stepper motor NEMA 17 (200 steps)
— power supply 12V, 1A
— Logitech C270 webcam
— material for the case (4 sheets of MDF 60x30x0.5cm, more details here)

What I used:
- Arduino Uno
— NEMA 17 stepper motor (200 steps)
— L298N driver for stepper motor
— 5mW laser module (red beam)
— power supply 12V, 2A
— Logiteck C270 webcam

Step 2: Creating the Hull

We cut out the body parts from MDF, I used a Dremel for these purposes, and assemble it. This procedure is not simple, since for correct scanning brain chamber, the motor and laser module must be positioned correctly.

Step 3: Connecting Electronics

It's quite simple: we mount the FabScan shield on the Arduino, and on the shield we install the driver in the first connector for the motor. We connect a stepper motor to the output contacts, and laser module to analog pin A4, and finally connect the power and USB cable. More details about this.

If you use components from my list, then you need to connect the L298 driver to pins 10, 11, 9, 8 on the Arduino (you can change them if desired), and the laser module also to pin A4. Then connect the power and USB cable.

Step 4: Code

Here is the code for crafts from the development team, and which can be loaded onto the Arduino directly from the browser using the Codebender plugin. To do this, you need to install this plugin and click the “Run on Arduino” button, thereby starting the “fill” directly from the code window.

Note: If you use the "Try Ubuntu" option, be sure to make sure your files are saved before turning off your computer!

Based on the above photos, follow these steps:

- select the serial port (SerialPort)
— set the camera
- then “File” - “Control Panel”
- run detect laser, without putting anything in the printer yet, and select “enable”
- click “Fetch Frame” and make sure the blue horizontal line touches the top of the turntable and the yellow horizontal line touches the bottom of the turntable. Yellow vertical line should pass through the center of the round turntable. An unaligned camera will produce distorted scans!

After setting, close the control panel window, place the object in the scanner and click the “start scan” button.

Tip: You can change the configuration file from the configuration.xml development team following the presented ones.

Saving the resulting 3D image:

When brain scan Once completed, the resulting 3D image can be saved in 3D pointcloud .pcd or .ply file format. Can also be saved in 3D format stl file, but it does not work on all platforms. You can open a file with a scanned object by selecting “File” - “OpenPointCloud”.

— make sure that the file with the scan has the extension .ply
— open the file in MeshLab and calculate the normals (Filters/Point Set/Compute normals for point sets)
— we recreate the surfaces using Poisson reconstruction (Filters/Point Set/Surface Reconstruction: Poisson).
That's all! And to everyone brain success!

Attention! Observe safety precautions when working with laser radiation. We remind you that attempts to repeat the author’s actions may lead to loss of warranty on the equipment and even to its failure. The material is provided for informational purposes only. If you are going to reproduce the steps described below, we strongly advise you to carefully read the article to the end at least once. The editors of 3DNews do not bear any responsibility for any possible consequences.

A professional 3D scanner is a complicated thing and not everyone needs it, and therefore quite expensive. But a simple analogue for digitizing a small number of objects can be done independently and with minimal expenditure of money and time. We will need: a laser module, a webcam, paper, a printer, cardboard or a sheet of plywood, as well as special software. Let's look at everything in order. We need a laser module with a beam in the form of a line (and not a point, as in the once popular Chinese pointers). It's easiest to get red modules, but green, white or blue will do. They cost around a thousand rubles when purchased in an offline store. And if you order at some Chinese online flea market, you can save a little, but you will have to wait until the (slow) post office delivers it.

We purchased a laser module with a wavelength of 650 nm (red) and a power of 5 mW for the experiment. More powerful lasers are much more expensive, and at the same time they are much more dangerous. It is better, of course, to buy a self-powered module, as it is much more convenient. Otherwise, you must definitely find out the power parameters and take care of creating a small “attachment” with batteries or accumulators and a switch. Just in case, let us remind you that the red wire is + and the black wire is -. Observe the polarity of the connection and power parameters, otherwise the laser may fail. Be sure to read the following warning!

Attention!!! Laser radiation is very dangerous! Never point a laser beam into the eyes of people (including yourself) or animals - this can cause irreparable damage to vision (for example, cause a burn to the retina)! Do not look at the laser beam through any optical equipment! Do not point the laser beam at any vehicles (including aircraft)! Never give the laser to children or inappropriate people, and make sure that they cannot access the laser! Do not use laser modules with a power of more than 5 mW, as in this case even the reflected beam can pose a danger! In any case, it is strongly recommended to purchase special safety glasses for work, designed for the wavelength emitted by the laser module! Do not hold the laser module at head level! Always follow safety precautions! If you do not understand the meaning of the above, do not use the laser! The editors of 3DNews and the author do not bear any responsibility for any possible consequences, including injuries caused by laser radiation!

Read the previous paragraph again and remember the above. It might be a good idea to check out the popular Laser Safety FAQ. By the way, a laser level can be an excellent replacement for the module. It also costs around 1,000 rubles. At the same time, it is obviously less dangerous due to the low radiation power, and you don’t have to bother with organizing the power supply and switch: insert the battery and it works.

Next on the list is a webcam. It must support WDM or DirectShow (it seems that all modern models have suitable drivers) and provide at least 30 FPS at a resolution of 640x480. You can take a worse camera, but the result will be the same. The higher the supported resolution and frame rate, the better, but the load on the PC in this case will be more noticeable. The developers of the software we use, which we will now turn to, recommend giving preference to the Logitech Pro 9000. We used the Logitech HDPro Webcam 910 webcam. The ideal option is to use a good black-and-white camera with a CCD matrix.

Finally, about the most important thing - about the program that will convert a flat image from a webcam into a three-dimensional model. This is a long-known utility DAVID-Laserscanner, which has already appeared in the news notes of our resource. Quite recently, the “major”, third release was released. For correct operation Microsoft must be installed on the PC. NET Framework version 2.0 or older. It should be noted right away that the full version of the program costs 329 euros. The demo version is almost complete, but does not allow you to save the finished 3D model. It seems that our readers do not need to explain where to buy correct version. If you are crystal clear at heart and have 400 euros to spare, then buy a ready-made branded kit consisting of a webcam with a stand, software, calibration panels with mounts and a powered red laser. If not, then you need to start by making a calibration angle.

In principle, the process of setting up and working with the utility is well described in the project’s wiki. So we will only briefly describe the main stages of the work. Download and install DAVID-Laserscanner. In the program folder in the Printout directory you will find files with calibration surface templates for A3 and A4 formats. You need to choose the appropriate format based on the size of the object being scanned. You can roughly estimate based on the fact that the height of the scanned object should be 1.5-2 times less than the height of the calibration angle. Print out the templates, cut or fold them along the fold lines and attach them to two flat surfaces - sheets of plywood or cardboard, on the walls in the corner of the room, inside a box, etc. In general, use your imagination.

The main condition is that the angle between the two planes should be 90 degrees and not change. You also need to ensure that the printed sheets remain smooth and even, and there is nothing glossy on their surface. The developers, in particular, recommend attaching printed sheets with adhesive tape. It is also important not to confuse the orientation of the sheets. On the printout you need to measure and remember the length (in mm) of the line labeled Scale. As an example, we will scan a small figurine of an owl. In this case, an A4 format template was suitable, which was attached to a piece of cardboard folder using a stapler.

When the corner is ready, you need to install the webcam so that it looks exactly at the fold line. There is one more nuance - there should be as large an angle as possible between the camera’s line of sight and the scanning laser beam. Therefore, you can make the camera look slightly upward. You may need to make small stands for the object being scanned and the camera itself. The most important thing is to ensure the ability to firmly fix the position of the camera and the calibration angle relative to each other after setup and calibration. If you do not need texturing of an object, then the webcam should immediately be switched to black and white mode.

Once the camera and angle are set, you can begin calibration. Launch DAVID-Laserscanner, select your webcam as the video source, and set its operating mode (resolution and frame rate). Now go to the Camera Calibration section. Enter the pre-measured width Scale and click Calibrate. If the program immediately showed that the calibration was successful, then this is very cool. Otherwise, you'll have to play with the camera settings. Disable various image “enhancers”, remove automatic brightness and contrast adjustment, as well as tracking autofocus. If you have manual focusing, make the image of the round marks clearer. You will also have to choose the distance from the corner to the lens and the tilt of the camera. The calibration process may take a long time, but once it is completed, immediately secure the camera and calibration angle carefully and do not touch them again.

Before each new scan, the calibration process will have to be repeated. Now you can place the object to be scanned in a corner (or on a stand) and go to the 3D Laser Scanning section. The object must be in the center of the camera image, and parts of the calibration angle must be visible to the left and right. To verify this, turn on the laser and point it at the sample - a line should be visible in the image both on the left and right, and on the object itself. Please note that you cannot scan a translucent or transparent sample - it must be coated with something like talc or matte paint. In general, matte objects are much better for scanning.

Now you need to shade the room (turn off the light sources, curtain the windows). Point the laser at the sample again. At this time, ideally you should see only a red line on a black background on the screen. If this is not the case, then you will have to open the webcam settings again and change them. But first, you should move the Exposure slider left and right. Oh yeah, don't forget to select the laser color of your module. Once everything is ready, you can start a test scan.

Switch the display mode to the depth map (Camera Shows -> Depth Map). Carefully move the laser beam into the field of view of the webcam. The beam should be as horizontal as possible, as thin as possible, and the module itself should be kept above the camera. Move the beam up and down along the scanned object - and you will see how the program, with a slight delay, draws its contours in space on the screen. You can't move the beam too fast, but moving it too slowly won't do any good. Try to “paint” the sample with as dense a grid of lines as possible. You also need to ensure that there is no “dirt”—extra lines around the object. It is best to hold the laser module in your hand and move it only with your hand. At the end, you will need to carefully move the beam line beyond the calibration angle.

Most likely, you will not be able to achieve a clean scan the first time. Experiment with the settings of the camera and the scanning itself, the position of the camera and laser, lighting, filtering (Result filtering, but it’s better not to change these values) and so on. In general, you need to train your hand properly. But then everything will be much simpler. Once you get comfortable and have selected the optimal values ​​for all parameters, proceed to the final scan. Click Stop and Erase, and then Start again and take the first scan of the object. As soon as it seems good enough to you, click Stop and then Add to list. Just in case, save a separate copy of the scan by clicking Save As.

Click Stop and Erase again. Rotate the object around its vertical axis so that it at least slightly intersects with its previous position. Repeat the scanning procedure in this way until the object rotates 360 degrees. Don't forget to save copies of scans and add them to the list. In principle, it is not at all necessary to rotate the sample around one of the axes (sometimes this is simply impossible), it will simply be more convenient. Your task is to obtain three-dimensional scans of the object from all sides in order to merge them together and export them.

We’ll leave the texturing process for independent study and move on to stitching, for which the Shape Fusion module is responsible. You can do this manually in almost any 3D editor. DAVID-Laserscanner saves scans in open format Alias ​​Wavefront (*.obj), but in the demo version it deliberately lowers the quality. You should already have a ready-made list with scanned items. We need to align them with each other. Select the alignment type from the list. If you “rotated” the object around one axis, then select it. Well, if you also turned at a strictly defined angle, indicate that too. Then click Align Scans and select two adjacent scans from the list. The program will “think” for a while and try to align them with each other in a couple of options. Select the most accurate one using the rounded arrow buttons at the top of the window.

Repeat the alignment procedure in pairs between list elements - 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 and so on. As a result, you will get a rough 3D model. It is possible that some scans will not align in any way - you can throw them out or start aligning from the end of the list, gradually approaching the problem area. You can try choosing a different alignment type for them. Do not pay attention to the “dirt” around the object and imperfections on its surface - the program will eventually smooth them out. In general, the more scans, the better the model can be. But then the likelihood of an accidental error increases. Here, as with the scanning itself, you have to go through the difficult path of trial and error.

As soon as you think that you have achieved the desired degree of alignment of the scans, press the Fuse button and wait for the program to prepare the 3D model. Like leveling, this process is quite resource-intensive. Very soon you will be able to enjoy (or, conversely, be disappointed) with the results of your actions. By the way, DAVID-Laserscanner has an alternative operating mode where a projector is used. If you have one, then you can experiment with it, and not with the laser.

The finished model can be exported to the same obj format and opened in a 3D editor for final polishing and preparation for printing. Naturally, exact copy the object being scanned will not be received. Firstly, DAVID-Laserscanner is especially difficult to detect various tricky recesses or cavities. Secondly, to reproduce very small patterns on the surface (for example, frequent notches) requires a high resolution cameras and as much as possible thin line laser Thirdly, when scanning, in any case, gaps are obtained, which the program tries to fill based on the position of nearby points. In general, the ideal, as always, is unattainable.

Finished, maximally smoothed model

In addition, there are obvious limitations on the size of scanned objects. Too small ones will not be obtained due to the relatively low scanning resolution, and for very large ones it is necessary to find a place of appropriate size to set the calibration angle. Besides DAVID-Laserscanner there are others software systems with a similar operating principle. True, they often require additional devices to rotate the object or move the laser. However, even the DIY design described above can save a lot of time for inexperienced 3D modelers. So try, experiment and you will definitely succeed! Good luck!

The attractiveness of additive technologies is difficult to overestimate. This is why 3D printing support equipment is so popular today. If you have a limited budget, you can make a 3D scanner yourself. To do this, they use available tools and units, or simply turn an ordinary smartphone into a scanner.

Making a 3D scanner using a webcam

In order to make a homemade 3D scanner, you will need:

• high-quality webcam;
• linear laser, that is, a device that emits a laser beam (to obtain a high-quality scan, it is better that the beam be as thin as possible);
• various fastenings, including an angle for calibration;
• special software for processing scanned images and data.

Please note that without the appropriate software you will not be able to create a digital model of objects and objects. Therefore, initially take care of the availability special programs. For example, DAVID laser scanner and TriAngles are considered basic, but they require the use of a rotating surface.

Start with the calibration angle. To create it, print a template (it is included with the program). Place it so that it creates a 90 degree angle. It is important that the correct scale is maintained during printing. To do this, use a calibration scale. Camera calibration is done automatically or manual mode, this is also provided by the software.

To scan an item, you will need to place it in the calibration corner, and install a webcam opposite it. It is important to place the object exactly in the center of the image on the screen. In the webcam settings you need to disable all automatic adjustments. They also help set the color of the laser beam. By pressing “Start”, smooth movements are made. The beam needs to circle the object from all sides. This will be the first scan cycle. In the future, it is necessary to change the position of the laser in order to cover all points that were not previously processed.

Upon completion of all processes, scanning stops and the “3D display” mode is selected in the program. If you don't have a laser on hand, you can replace it with a bright light source. It will ensure the projection of the shadow line. However, in this case, change the settings in the program that will correspond to these parameters.

Making a 3D scanner from two web cameras

If you need high digitization accuracy, you will need to use two webcams. In this case, the light source is replaced by a second camera. A do-it-yourself 3D scanner from two cameras allows you to minimize the time of calculations for points falling within the laser stripe.

Making a 3D scanner from a projector and webcam

For this you will need:

• projector;
• webcam;
• DAVID-laserscanner program;
• tripods for webcams and projectors;
• calibration panel (attach two small sheets of chipboard at an angle of 90 degrees and glue paper sheets with pre-printed templates using dry glue);
• turntable (can be made from an old grace exercise machine and several pins).

To scan an object, place it vertically and make 7-8 scans, rotating it in a circle. We combine the resulting scans. After this, we change the position of the object and perform the same procedure. We combine scans of the two halves of the object. By clicking on the “fuse” button, we get a three-dimensional model of the object. It can be saved in any chosen format, and then processed using:

• Delсam LastMaker;
• Easylast;
• Last Design & Engineering;
• Forma 2000;
• Shoemaster QS.

Making a 3D scanner from a game console

Xbox One is a console that is already equipped with a second generation Kinect and can be used as a 3D scanner. If you have a regular game controller, then you can make a 3D scanner from kinect using the following programs:

1. Kinect Fusion. Creates highly detailed models by reading data from Kinect sensors.
2. Skanect. With its help, 3D images of rooms with all the objects that are in them are created. To create a three-dimensional model of the surrounding space, you simply need to rotate the device around you. In order to detail individual objects, it is necessary to point the camera at them again.

Making a 3D scanner from a smartphone

How to make a 3D scanner from a regular one mobile device? Today, various software products. With their help, the smartphone turns into a full-fledged 3D scanner. The most popular software algorithms:

1. MobileFusion. It tracks the position of an object using a standard camera, and then takes a photo. From a series of photographs, a three-dimensional model is obtained. Works on different platforms and OS.
2. Helps in creating three-dimensional photographs of any objects, and then sends them to a 3D printer.
3. Autodesk 123D Satch. Using this program, three-dimensional models of buildings, people and other objects are created and printed on additive devices, which can be photographed from all angles and sides.

Such systems do not require hardware modifications or an Internet connection. To get started, you just need to run mobile app and move your phone around the object that is being scanned.

FabScan is an open source, do-it-yourself laser 3D scanner. I assembled mine from MDF sheets and various available materials and, as an example, I decided to lay out the creation process for you.

Step 1: What you'll need

For the official FabScan scanner you need:

• Arduino UNO
• Stepper motor A4988
• FabScan-Shield 3D laser scanner module for Arduino
• 5mW red laser module
• Power supply 12V - 1A
• Logitech C270 webcam

To create a box you will need 4 sheets of MDF measuring 600*300*5 mm.

In my project I used:

• Arduino UNO
• Bipolar Stepper Motor - NEMA 17 (200 steps)
• Stepper motor A4988
• 5mW red laser module
• Power supply 12V - 2A
• Logitech C270 webcam

Since we will be using FabScan software, I recommend sticking to their parts list; you can easily find all the documentation for the FabScan reference 3D scanner on the Internet.

Step 2: Assembling the gallery box for the 3D scanner

Show 4 more images

I used a Dremel and my imagination to assemble the scanner box. This is not so simple, because in order to obtain the correct 3D image, the camera, laser and stepper motor must be in the correct positions. If you don’t want to bother, you can just buy ready-made parts, but it won’t be cheap.

Step 3: Connecting the Modules

Assembling the hardware is quite simple:
Connect the FabScan module to the Arduino, and set the A4988 motor to its first step position. Connect the motor to the output pins and the laser module to the analog pin A4. Finally, connect the power supply and USB cable.

If you decide to assemble the scanner according to my parts list:
Then you need to connect the A4988 motor to pins 10, 11, 9, 8 on the Arduino (if desired, the pins can be changed), and connect the laser module to pin A4. At the end, also connect the power supply and USB cable.

Step 4: Code for Arduino

We will use the official code from FabScan. Upload it to the Arduino and you're done.

If you have the Codebender plugin installed, you can upload the code to Arduino by following this link.

If you are assembling the scanner according to my parts list, then click the Edit button and do the following:

• Add lines #include const int stepsPerRevolution = 200;//change to the number of steps of your engine Stepper myStepper(stepsPerRevolution, 10, 11,8,9);
• Replace the step() function with the following: void step() ( myStepper.setSpeed(1); myStepper.step(1); )

Step 5: Computer Software

We will use the "FabScan Ubuntu Live DVD" image. You can download it. In this image, FabScan software is already pre-installed. The image can be written to a flash drive; how to do this can be found on the Internet.

Important note: If you chose the “Try Ubuntu” option, then save your files before turning off your computer!

Look at the attached photos and follow the steps:

• Select the port in SerialPort
• Select the camera in Camera
• File - Control Panel
• Click on detect laser (don't put anything in the scanner at this stage) and select 'enable'
• Click on "Fetch Frame" and make sure the blue horizontal line touches the top of the turntable and the yellow horizontal line touches the bottom. The vertical yellow line should go through the center of the turntable. A loose camera can cause distorted scans!

After setting, close the control panel window, place the object in the scanner, and click on the start scan button.

Saving 3D image:
When the scanning process is completed, you can save the 3D object to a file in .pcd or .ply formats. You can also save it in stl format, but it is not supported on all platforms. You can also open a previously scanned item by selecting File - OpenPointCloud.

What to do with 3D files?
You can open them in MeshLab and print them on a 3D printer.
To print objects in MeshLab:

• Save the object in .ply format
• Open the file in MeshLab
• In MeshLab, calculate normals (Filters/Point Set/Compute normals for point sets)
• Reconstruct the surface using poisson reconstruction (Filters/Point Set/Surface Reconstruction: Poisson)
• Ready