Quick and easy repair of broken headphones at home: instructions and tips. How to properly solder a new plug to the headphones (with wire pinout)

Those who love listening to music have encountered a situation where a crackling or hissing sound is heard in one earphone and it breaks down. Your task is to find where the breakdown is and fix it.

Don't know anything about technology? Take the unit to a workshop, but most can deal with the breakdown on their own, and we will tell you how to fix it.

Have you spent a long time choosing a device of a good brand, beautiful design, and one day you began to hear a crackling hissing noise? This means that there is a problem somewhere, for example, at the plug, and the device needs to be repaired.

Some people immediately start searching on the Internet or asking friends where is the nearest workshop? In fact, there is nothing complicated in fixing headphones, and we will look at typical problems and how to fix them.

Have your headphones broken before? No? Most often, you will find one of the following problems:

  • the wire broke right at the plug;
  • there is no contact with the wire at the headphone;
  • the channel is clogged;
  • the membrane has broken.

These are the main problems you may encounter. Diagnose the problem and begin to fix it.

We will look in detail at how to repair headphones. Let's start the review with a common problem.

If the headphones are inexpensive, then the jack (connector) will not be very secure. They are mainly produced in 2 types.

You will get 2.5″ or 3.5″. It cannot be said that one is more reliable than the other. Both can break at one time or another.

To fix the problem, you will need to read the theory and start practicing. This will take about 20 minutes. Let's look at how the plug is designed and the purpose of its wires hidden in the cord:

  • one channel right;
  • second channel left;
  • general channel.

In the wire you will find 3 wires, each of which comes from these channels.

The wire is broken

Signs of failure will be as follows.

  1. You will hear a rustling sound in one of the headphones or in both, and then the sound disappears. This means that the wire has broken at the bend. You need to turn on the headphones and feel the entire wire with your hands. At the same time, move it and rotate it. You will hear a rustling sound at the site of the breakdown. You need to mark the place where the break is with a marker or something else. Now disconnect the headphones from the device. Take wire cutters and tear off the wires where they are broken. Strip it so that you can solder the 2 ends. Solder and test the device. Is the sound from the headphones normal? You can wrap this place with electrical tape.
  2. When you carry headphones in a bag, etc., the plug often breaks. The jack has great mobility of parts; due to bends and then creases, one of the wires may break.

Repairing the plug

Often a break can be found at the plug, especially if the headphones are inexpensive and the manufacturers have not taken much care to protect them. You will need tools, and if the plug itself fails, you will need to buy a suitable one.

Will be required the following tools and accessories:

  • tin with rosin and, of course, a soldering iron;
  • special stationery knife;
  • lighter;
  • vice;
  • glue;
  • cambric (heat shrink).

Let's start fixing the plug. You need to disconnect the jack from the cable by cutting it off. Do this just above the place where the wiring is broken.

It is necessary to remove interfering and unnecessary plastic from the connector, and some people buy a new break or take a whole one from old headphones. Strip the wiring no less than 2 cm.

Your task is to find out which of them - left, right, common - through experience.

Connect the wires one by one, and in which speaker you hear the sound, that determines the wire (left or right). The remaining common wire will sound on the left channel.

Solder these wires to your channels. Act like this.

  1. It is necessary to expose one end of the vein, then the second.
  2. Our jack is secured in a vice.
  3. It is required to solder each core to a specific channel. Adhesions need to be protected. To do this, the nylon thread that is in the wire is attached directly to the plug. This is insurance for the soldered joint.
  4. You will need heat shrink cambric to hide the exposed ends with adhesions. You need to cut a piece of the required length, put it on the exposed veins and hold this place over the fire, and it will stick.

If you want to make the protection more reliable, use 2 cambrics here. Cut off the excess with a utility knife. If you follow the recommendations, you will be able to fix the jack yourself.

If you understand the structure of the headphones, you will be able to fix them. Self-confidence will appear during work. Check what works and what doesn't. Start fixing it.

The earphone is broken

You hear that the sound in one earphone has disappeared or a crackling noise has appeared, which means you need to inspect the part. Open it and pay attention to the membrane. If it turns out to be wrinkled, then straighten it, straighten it and it will lie flat.

Specks often accumulate on the membrane. Because of them, you will hear a crackling hissing sound, and the part will fail.

The mesh that covers the membrane must be washed with alcohol.

If the membrane is too wrinkled, it has already failed. There is no point in going to a workshop. They are expensive and it is easier to buy new headphones than to buy a new membrane to replace.

When the wires in the earphone break, they will not work.

So, the earphone needs to be disassembled. The fastenings will be screws or plastic latches. Headphone shells use glue for connection. The headphones need to be opened and the wire cut. Now strip and solder the ends. It will be the same as before the breakdown.

Now check if the sound in the design works? And the 2 halves of the “ear” can be assembled.

At each stage, did you do as experienced music lovers advise, but the headphones did not work? Look for old ones, cut off the plug. Next you need to solder with the top working.

If you are attached to these headphones and want to fix them yourself, then combine parts and try to fix them. Couldn't you fix anything?

Buy new headphones, take care of them carefully, and you won’t have to repair or throw away your favorite thing again. Good luck with your repairs and listening to your favorite music.

Individual speakers, or, as they are also called, headphones, are designed for listening to information (speech, music). They are very often used as a headset for communication devices (walkie-talkie or mobile phone).

Almost every user of these devices has at least once encountered a situation where the headphones stop functioning. Information on how to properly solder headphones will help you avoid the cost of purchasing a new device.

Finding out the cause of the headphones malfunction

The most likely cause of device failure may be chafing of the wires inside the connecting cables, caused by frequent kinks. Most often this happens where the wire connects to the headphone or plug. Occasionally, damage to the cores in the middle of the cable occurs, but this occurs in most cases due to a one-time mechanical impact (the cable was pinched by a door, drawer, etc.).

Determining which headphone has a broken cable is usually easy. When playing music, the damaged speaker is silent.

To locate the fracture site, you need to bend the wire at an angle of 90 degrees, through your thumb along the entire wire.

If the wire core is not completely frayed, then you can determine the location of the break using a tester. The resistance value between the common wire and the wire going to the earphone is measured. The principle of determination is that the readings of the device change when the spatial position of the wire changes. If the contact is not broken, then no matter how you twist the wire, the resistance values ​​reflected by the tester will be constant. A different picture will be observed if the cable is partially frayed: the readings on the screen will react very sensitively to the slightest deviation of the wire from its original position.

Theoretically, you can even get by with so-called traditional methods. A characteristic cracking sound in the speakers, which is heard when the cable is rocked, can help detect a headphone with partially broken contact integrity.

It is generally accepted to troubleshoot headphones in a top-down direction, i.e. directly from the headphone itself to the plug. The most typical places of breakdowns are localized where the connections are located. Knowing the faulty channel and disassembling the junction of the wire and the speaker, you can find the fault location with a 50% probability.

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Direct soldering process

Repairing headphones comes down to restoring contact in damaged wires.

For this you will need:

  • soldering iron;
  • solder;
  • rosin;
  • stationery or construction knife.

To ensure complete confidence in eliminating the problem area, a piece of cable approximately 1-3 cm long is cut from the earphone.

To remove the protective insulating casing, it is necessary to remove one-half inch (1.25 cm) of the outer braid using wire cutters or a utility knife.

Using a construction knife, the outer insulation of the cable is stripped. Inside there are two wires, marked with different colors. Most often, the left channel is marked in red, the right channel is marked in green, and the common channel is marked either in blue or yellow. Sometimes the common channel is bare copper wire.

In a section of about 0.5 cm from the end of the wire, it is necessary to remove the insulation.

Depending on the material, you can remove it in several ways:

  1. The polymer insulation is carefully removed using a knife so as not to damage the conductive material.
  2. Varnish and paint are removed by burning with a soldering iron or mechanically using a knife or fine sandpaper.

The stripped ends of the internal cores are tinned with solder. The soldering iron is plugged in and left for the time required to heat it up. Then take a small piece of solder with the tip of the soldering iron. The stripped end of the wire is installed on rosin. The soldering iron tip distributes the molten solder evenly over the entire cleaned surface. The wires are ready for soldering.

Simplifying the process, you can combine tinning and removing varnish insulation.

To do this, you must additionally take a tablet of acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin) or any aspirin-containing medicine. Even expired tablets will do. So, before you run outside, you need to look into your home first aid kit.

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Another way to combine varnish removal and tinning is to use fine-grit sandpaper. A small piece of rosin is placed on the working side of the sandpaper. The end of the wire to be tinning is placed on it. The tip of a heated soldering iron picks up a small amount of solder and presses the wire. When the rosin melts and the wire heats up, it is pulled out from under the soldering iron tip with a little effort. The abrasive grains remove the heated and slightly softened insulation. At the same time, tinning occurs. By repeating a similar procedure, you can get a uniformly coated tip of the wire, ready for soldering.

The body of the cut off earphone is carefully disassembled using a knife along the assembly line. The tip of a heated soldering iron is placed in the contact area of ​​​​fastening the old wires. Once the solder softens, the wires are immediately removed.

The cable with stripped ends is threaded through the hole in the headphone body. It is very important not to forget to tie a safety knot on the cable. It will maintain the integrity of the contacts during unexpected wire jerks, taking on the entire load.

The ends ready for soldering can only be soldered onto their contact points on the headphone body. It is important to ensure that the contacts are connected correctly in accordance with the color markings.

Soldering headphone wires is very convenient, using a wooden clothespin as an auxiliary tool. It will work like a mini-clamp and will not only help securely fix the workpieces, but will also save your fingers from possible burns.

A similar procedure must be followed if there is a need to repair the cable in the area of ​​connection with the plug:

  • cut the cable;
  • strip the insulation;
  • tin the mounting ends;
  • if necessary, disassemble the plug housing;
  • solder the ends into place;
  • reassemble.

After restoring the device's functionality, you can enjoy the sound of your favorite music in your own repaired headphones.


It's no secret that the most common malfunction of any headphones (plugs, earbuds or large over-ear ones) is a broken wire near the plug. In this situation, there is nothing left to do except change the plug on the headphones. This is easy and can be done by anyone who has ever held a soldering iron in their hands. The only thing that would be desirable is to understand the intricacy of the wires (in some headphones there are as many as 6 wires under the cable insulation!)

Today we’ll talk about how to solder headphones to a plug without making any mistakes.

You don't need to think about anything, just follow the step-by-step instructions provided and you can easily repair your favorite headphones.

So, let's go!

1. Ruthlessly bite off the plug:

2. How to replace the plug on headphones? For this we will use the old connector. Let's gut it using a sharp stationery knife, ripping it right along the seam. This method allows you to disassemble almost any plug:


Open the plastic shell and take out the insides. Do you see a group of contacts with pieces of wire soldered to them?


We remember the pinout of the headphone wires (or better yet, write down on a piece of paper which wire was soldered to which contact). Here Standard headphone wire layout by color:

  • green wire- this is the left channel;
  • red wire- this is the right channel;
  • yellow (copper) wire- general.

You will find more detailed information about which wire in the headphones is responsible for what later in this article (scroll to the very end).

3. Now you need to clean up the wires a little headphones. What the result should look like:


we connect the common wires (which are in colorless varnish) together and tin the very ends:


A few words about how to re-solder the plug on the headphones. It will be bad to pick, because... the wires are covered with varnish insulation. To make the process easier, you can lightly burn the very ends with a lighter.

How to tin wires from headphones using an aspirin tablet, as shown in this video:

Personally, I made do with an ordinary knife, which I used to carefully clean off the enamel coating from the wires. And after that I tinned it in the usual way - with solder and rosin.

4. Now we find an old unnecessary pen somewhere:

and separate the very tip from it:

This will be the body of our new plug.

5. Prepare a piece of heat shrink, which will protect the wires from sharp bends at the exit from the plug:


6. It's time to solder the headphone wires to the plug. You need to solder in full accordance with the colors of the wires in the headphones (we remember where which color was soldered or look for our piece of paper where everything is written down):

Don't forget to pre-fit the casing and heat shrink onto the wire!

7. Make sure everything works. To do this, turn the multimeter into dialing mode, plug the headphones into your ears and alternately touch the probes to different contacts. All sorts of rustling and clicking noises should be heard in different channels.

Or you can try to plug this unfinished plug into your phone or MP3 player and start playing music. In the latter case, it is important to make sure that the right and left channels work independently of each other (use the balance adjustment).

8. If everything sounds right, shrink the heat shrink using a hair dryer or a regular lighter:


9. Apply a couple of drops of epoxy glue:


Glue everything together and leave for several hours until complete polymerization.

10. We rejoice how we fixed the headphone plug!

Look at the photo of how I managed to solder the new plug to the headphones:



In my opinion, this is the easiest way to fix a headphone plug of all those proposed on the Internet. Despite the fact that the result is quite decent. If you don’t look closely, it’s not even clear that it’s homemade.

By the way, at first I had the idea to cook baking soda and superglue paste to use it instead of epoxy resin.


But it turned out that this mixture hardens so quickly (almost instantly!) that this option had to be discarded as unsuitable.

That's it. Now you know how to make headphones if the plug is broken and which wire in the headphones is responsible for what. Always try to figure out how everything works, how to repair the plug on your headphones with your own hands, save your money!

Additionally about the colors of wires in headphones

How to properly solder wires to a headphone plug is out of the question if you are not familiar with the colors of wires in headphones and their meaning (for example, do you know what the green wire is responsible for?)

A different number of wires may come to the headphone plug:

  • 2 wires (for mono headphones);
  • 3 wires (for mono or stereo headphones depending on the connection diagram);
  • 4 wires (for stereo headphones);
  • 5 or 6 wires (for stereo headset with microphone).

2 wires

I don’t think anyone needs to explain how to repair a headphone plug if they only have two wires. It is basically impossible to confuse anything here.

3 wires

There are always two wires from each ear - plus and minus, but sometimes the manufacturer combines the minuses of both speakers together and it turns out that only three wires come to the plug. To make it clearer, here is a soldering diagram for a headphone plug:

This picture explains even more clearly where to solder the wires to the headphone plug:

Most often, the wires are coated with varnish of different colors:

  • red- right channel;
  • green, blue or white wire - left channel;
  • clear varnish- common wire (ground).

Of course, there are no strict standards and colors may vary. Here's what it looks like in real life:




Let's see how to properly solder a wire to the headphones (3 wires):

4 wires

If your plug has 4 wires, then there may be options.

Option one: you have ordinary headphones without a microphone and without buttons (the plug has only 3 contacts). Then these four wires are simply two pairs of wires from each of the speakers. Their disadvantages are the same color (copper), and their advantages are different (usually blue and red or green and red):


In this case, common wires (those of the same color) are connected together and soldered to the common contact of the plug. You should immediately understand how to solder 4 wires from the headphones to the plug from the figure:

Here's how to solder headphones to such a jack:

Option two: you have a full-fledged headset (i.e. headphones with a microphone) and the plug has 4 contacts. Then, most likely, these four wires are one wire from each speaker, one signal wire from the microphone, and one common wire for all.

Schematically, this can be indicated as follows:

And here's how to make a plug on the headphones (correct soldering of headphones when there are 4 wires):

Most often, a microphone wire only looks like one wire, but in reality it is two wires: a thin wire in white PVC insulation completely wrapped in enameled copper wire (in colorless enamel). Something like this:
And in this case, it would be more correct to say that the headphones have not 4 wires, but all 5.

5, 6 or more wires

Depending on the implementation option, there may be 5 or more wires inside the cable from the headset. Up to 10! Be that as it may, they always try to make the signal wire from the microphone in its own “ground” braid.

In short, if you gutted your cable and it looks something like this:

or even like this:
then no one will immediately tell you how to properly solder the plug to such headphones. There can only be one piece of advice here: take a tester and test all the wires until you determine where the right ear is and where the left is. The remaining wires are to the microphone.

Determine by color which wires may be common and connect them all together. Solder all signal signals according to the connector pinout (see pictures above).

Then test the headphones and microphone. If something is wrong, look for the reason. No one will really tell you anything here; proceed using the scientific dildo method.

Instructions

Make sure that the break point is located in the plug. If it is located even a couple of centimeters from it, it is more advisable to eliminate the break in the cord than to change the plug. To determine the location of the break, lightly rock the cable in different places.

Before repairing, disconnect the headphones from the device.

Buy a new headphone plug. It must be of the same standard as the existing faulty one (stereo, Jack). Monophonic will not work. The new plug, unlike the old one, has a collapsible design. Please note that the new plug must also have a diameter similar to the same parameter as the old one (6.3 or 3.5 mm).

An alternative to purchasing a new plug is to use the corresponding part from other headphones. Find among the faulty headphones you have those in which the break is located not in the plug, but in another place. Cut off a short (about four centimeters long) piece of cable from them along with the plug.

If you are installing a new plug, cut off the old one and then remove the cap from the new one. Thread the cable through it and also through a small piece of conduit. Solder both clear or yellow wires to the post. Solder the blue or green wire to one of the small contacts, the red or orange wire to the other, also after putting even smaller pieces of tube on them. Then pull these pieces of tubing over the solder joints. Move the large piece of tube closer to the stand, and then clamp the cable through it with the paws on it. Do not use excessive force when doing this. Screw the cap back onto the plug.

If you are using a plug from another headphone, connect all the yellow or clear wires of both cords together. Separately connect the blue (green) wire to the same wire of the other cable. Do the same with the red (orange) wires. Securely isolate connections, including from each other.

Connect headphones to the device and check.

Sources:

  • how to replace headphones

Many electronic devices use a miniature TRS connector, commonly called a Jack"(jack). It is a unified plug for “audio” or “stereo”. There are several modifications of this plug, having different sizes, but each “ Jack"consists of a tip, ring and sleeve. Repairing or installing a plug of this type has some features.

You will need

  • - jack type connector;
  • - soldering iron with a power of 25-40 W;
  • - flux;
  • - solder;
  • - sewing thread.

Instructions

Inspect the connector. Some inexpensive " Jack The pads intended for soldering are nickel plated. Rosin and other fluxes based on it are not suitable for soldering such a connector. If you cannot find an active flux, then simply scrape the coating off the pad with a sharp knife and tin it.

Select the appropriate size cable to connect to the connector. Keep in mind that in most cases a thick shielded cable will not work, since under the protective cap " Jack a" not enough space.

Before soldering, shorten the wire formed by the pre-twisted strands of the shield wire to prevent it from shorting to the left channel.

Place protective tubes on the wires and solder the wires to the corresponding connector pins. Slide the protective tubes onto the connector pins.

After this, solder the common wire to the connector. Considering the size of the connector, prepare the soldering iron tip in advance, slightly narrowing it with a file if necessary. The technology for soldering a connector is practically no different from the technology for connecting by soldering any other parts. An additional condition is that the solder can be anything except low-melting solders, for example, Wood’s alloys.

Insert the cable into the fastener. To securely secure the cable, tightly wrap 8-10 turns of strong sewing thread around it. Now, holding the ends of the thread with one hand, use a soldering iron to apply a heated drop onto the coils. Do not secure the thread with a knot, as this will weaken the connection.

Bend the contacts of the left and right channels inside the structure. Screw on the protective cap. Installation " Jack a” this can be considered complete. Check the functionality of the connector by inserting it into the appropriate socket of the electronic device.

Video on the topic

Sources:

  • Installation of a 3.5 mm jack plug

If you handle it carelessly microphone, then there is a very high probability that it may fail. Failures of this type, as a rule, are not very serious and can be corrected independently, using improvised means.

Instructions

Determine the reason why not. The problem may not be with the device at all, but with the connecting cable. To check this, connect the microphone to an amplifier or any other device with which you are using it. Start bending the cable in different places. If you get to the right place, a signal will appear.

To make it easier to check if there is a problem with the cable, connect the microphone using a different cord. In this case, there may be no need to solder the microphone. Locate the cable break. Cut it out and solder the plug to the new location.

Carefully inspect the microphone for . The power button, if there is one, may be damaged. Try to fix it in working position. Could have just jumped the slider. Remove the protective mesh from the microphone head. Check if the contacts are intact. Carefully remove it by pulling it towards you. If one or both pins are damaged, you will need to solder them back in place.

Take a soldering iron, tin and... To make soldering more reliable, it is best to use a special composition - rosin dissolved in alcohol. It can be purchased at any construction supermarket in the tool accessories department. To solder the microphone, heat up your soldering iron.

Clean the previous contact point. Remove any remaining solder from it using a soldering iron. Apply melted rosin or a special composition to it. Then apply some molten tin to give the contacts something to solder to. After the tin has hardened, and it hardens very quickly, take the torn contact.

To repair the microphone, press the contact with a soldering iron onto the catch at the soldering site. Once the contact is immersed in the tin, remove the soldering iron. The tin will harden and the contact will be soldered. Do the same with the other contact. Make sure that the length of the soldered wire is not too long, because then it will be difficult to stuff everything into the microphone body, and the signal quality will be much worse.

Video on the topic

Converted cables are used when it is necessary to connect one device to another, but there is no cable with the required combination of connectors. Then it can be soldered from two cables, each of which has one required connector.

Instructions

Make sure that the devices that you are going to connect to each other, although equipped with connectors of different types, are compatible with each other both electrically (polarities, signal levels, etc.) and logically (signal shape, transmission protocol data, etc.).

Take two cables. Make sure you no longer need both of them for their intended use. The first of them must have at least one connector suitable for the first of the connected devices, and the second one must have at least one connector suitable for the second device.

Cut both cables in half. Remove the outer sheath to a length of about two centimeters from those halves of the cable that will be used - the conductors will be revealed underneath. Clean them and tin them. If one of the conductors is a shield, unbraid it, move it to the side, then braid it again, and only then tin it.

Use an ohmmeter to determine which wires are connected to which terminal pins. Now, guided by the pinouts of the connectors themselves, connect the cable halves together accordingly. It is important that the inputs of one device are connected to the corresponding outputs of the other.

Carefully insulate each connection separately. Position the connections so that they do not touch each other, despite the presence of insulation. Now wrap them all together with several layers of electrical tape.

Call cable ohmmeter, making sure that there are no breaks or short circuits. After that, check it in operation. Connect devices to each other when they are de-energized, unless they are hot-pluggable.

Sources:

  • how to re-solder a connector

The headphone wires are very thin. After a short period of use they wear out. Most often this happens in the plug. This problem can be resolved by re-soldering.

Remove the cores coated with colored insulating varnish from under the cord sheath. The length of the unsheathed conductors should be about 15 mm. Their color coding is as follows: silver or golden - general; green or blue - left; red or orange - right. Tin the conductors to a length of about 3 mm. Do not use matches or lighters to release conductors from insulation - then not only will the varnish burn, but the copper will also blacken, making it difficult to tin. Press the conductor, on which rosin has previously been applied, to the board and run it with a tinned soldering iron several times - the varnish will burn and the copper will tin.

To save the old plug, first unsolder the remaining conductors from the soldering points. Place heat shrink tubing over the entire cord. Solder both common conductors to the contact least distant from the boundary between the protruding part of the connector and the body. Solder the conductor corresponding to the left channel to the most distant contact, and the corresponding conductor to the right one to the middle one.

Check the headphones with an ohmmeter: if you connect it between the common wire and the contact of a particular channel, you will hear a click in the corresponding speaker. If this does not happen and the arrow does not deviate, you have a break, and if there is no click when the arrow deviates, there is a short circuit. Correct all errors.

Fill the solder joints with glue from a gun, and when it cools down, put on the heat-shrink tube so that it does not cover the protruding part of the connector, but covers all solder joints, then heat it with a lighter so that the tube shrinks and wraps around the plug. You cannot overexpose it - the tube may char and even catch fire. Now test the headphones again with an ohmmeter.

To install a new plug, remove the cover and thread the cord through it. The internal thread of the cover must face the connector. Place a thick cambric on the cord, and thin cambrics on the conductor cores corresponding to the channels. There is no need to put separate casings on the cores of the common wire. If the cover is metal, also put a tube on the cord, which you will find in the plug after removing the cover from it.

Having spent 10 rubles and half an hour of your own time. Along the way, we’ll tell you where to buy a more reliable and fashionable option.

Broke? We'll help. If it's not broken, you'll love it there so much so that you break it and try to fix it!

Jack - 100 years in service with an unresolved problem

Headphones almost never survive into old age. Previously, their wires frayed. Neither Kevlar braiding nor reinforced wires can save you from this - even special windings around the connector cannot save you.

All types of connectors are susceptible to breaking: both L-shaped and straight. The manufacturer and cost of the headphones does not matter - although it is much more offensive to lose expensive Bose or AKG because of a damaged wire.

The repair is simple: cut off the wire near the connector and solder another one. It would be possible to use metal parts of the original one (the connector itself) - but how to make a neat case?

Where can I get the connector?


The easiest way is to buy. Previously, you had to use huge minijacks designed for use with desktop audio systems (and for other purposes).


Today you can find miniature connectors on AliExpress or eBay. They performed well:

What if you need to replace the plug right now? Then it’s a direct route to the pharmacy for a medical needle.

Affordable, easy to remodel and very attractive in appearance.

What is required and why should you use this option?


In fact, we will use the original plug. From them you can only use the connector - the shell will have to be thrown away (in my case it will remain, but we will assume the worst case scenario - a plastic plug). But no more is needed.

For repairs you will need:

Dremel or mini drill;
- drill;
- soldering iron;

Heat shrink (optional);
- rosin;
- solder;
- medical needle.

1. Disassembling the original connector


Everything is very simple step by step:


1) cut off the wire just above the bend (break)

2) cut off the plastic shell, or remove the metal sleeve of the original plug in a vice;

3) clean off the glue, compound or heat-shrink tube - everything that the manufacturer used to isolate the jack shell from its contacts.

Be careful - in order not to damage the plug, it must be clamped in a vice at the very base (otherwise it will turn out like in the photo).

2. Turn a needle into a jack


1) take out the metal part of the medical needle;


2) select a suitable drill - its diameter should be slightly larger than the diameter of the wire;


3) drill a hole for the wire.


The new connector housing is ready. Now all that remains is to put it on the wire prepared for soldering (preferably placing a heat-shrink tube between them).

After this, solder the wires to the connector contacts in accordance with the wiring diagram:

Let's check - does it work? If not, the fault is hidden somewhere else, or has a wiring diagram different from the one presented (relevant only for headsets).

Now you need to squeeze a little glue into the former needle. And assemble the two parts into a single whole. After drying you can use it.



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