Wiring diagram for SATA - power connector and hard drive power connector - SATA. Modding a USB-to-SATA converter for your own needs Do-it-yourself adapter from hard drive to usb

SATA (English: Serial ATA)- serial interface for data exchange with information storage devices. SATA is a development of the parallel interface, which after the advent of SATA was renamed PATA (Parallel ATA).

- data cable connector. Hard drive data cable connector -

Description SATA

SATA uses a 7-pin connector instead of PATA's 40-pin connector. The SATA cable has a smaller area, due to which the resistance to air blowing through the computer components is reduced, and wiring inside the system unit is simplified. Due to its shape, the SATA cable is more resistant to multiple connections. The SATA power cord is also designed to accommodate multiple connections. The SATA power connector supplies 3 supply voltages: +12 V, +5 V and +3.3 V; however modern devices

can operate without +3.3 V voltage, which makes it possible to use a passive adapter from a standard IDE to SATA power connector. A number of SATA devices come with two power connectors: SATA and Molex. The SATA standard abandoned the traditional PATA connection of two devices per cable; each device is assigned a separate cable, which eliminates the problem of the impossibility of simultaneous operation of devices located on the same cable (and the resulting delays), reduces possible problems

during assembly (there is no problem of conflict between Slave/Master devices for SATA), eliminates the possibility of errors when using non-terminated PATA cables.

The SATA standard supports the command queuing function (NCQ, starting with SATA Revision 2.x). The SATA standard does not provide for hot swapping of the active device (used Operating System

) (up to SATA Revision 3.x), additionally connected drives must be disconnected gradually - power, cable, and connected in the reverse order - cable, power.

SATA connectors

The SATA interface has two data transfer channels, from controller to device and from device to controller. LVDS technology is used to transmit the signal; the wires of each pair are shielded twisted pairs.

There is also a 13-pin combined SATA connector used in servers, mobile and portable devices for slim CD/DVD drives. Devices are connected using a SATA Slimline ALL-in-One Cable. It consists of a combined connector of a 7-pin connector for connecting the data bus and a 6-pin connector for connecting the device’s power supply. In addition, to connect to these devices, servers use a special adapter.

Using http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/SATA

The most interesting comments on the colors of the SATA power connector cable:

RU2012:"Adapters are available to convert a 4-pin Molex connector to a SATA power connector. However, since 4-pin Molex connectors do not provide 3.3 V, these adapters only provide 5 V and 12 V power and leave the 3.3 V lines disabled. This does not allow the use of such adapters with drives that require 3.3 V power - orange wire.

Understanding this, manufacturers hard drives have largely left support for the 3.3V orange power cable option in their storage devices - power lines are not used in most devices.

HOWEVER, WITHOUT 3.3V POWER (orange wire), the SATA DEVICE MAY NOT BE ABLE TO HOT PLUG THE DISK..." - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_ATA

Have questions - ask- we will help as best we can (for comments to work, you need to have the Java script enabled in your browser):
To comment, just ask a question in the window below, then click “Post as” - enter your email and Name, and click “Post comment”.

The note sets out in an accessible form simple steps on adapting a USB-to-SATA converter to a form suitable for use using available tools.

Preamble

So, the task is this: connect a SATA screw to a miniITX system in the absence of free SATA.

Part I

As it turned out, the board is not just a USB-to-SATA converter, but is intended for devices such as laptop DVD drives that have a mating connector on board slimSATA(features an additional non-standard power supply). Thus, it was not possible to connect the adapter to ordinary SATA devices and it was thrown into a dark corner of the box for a long time.

So, the adapter contains a slimSATA connector, which includes a standard SATA 7pin female connector (as on connecting cables):

Even if you remove an additional non-standard slimSATA power connector from the board, when inserted into the HDD, the adapter will block access to the HDD power connector (SATA 15pin). There is only one way out - an extension cord SATA connector 7pin, for which we carefully cut off one of the ends of a standard SATA cable:

Now you can completely remove the slimSATA connector from the adapter board and solder the end of the SATA cable (without mixing up the RX - TX differential pairs!):

To impart mechanical strength to the joint between the cable and the board, it was decided to use PVC electrical tape (I abandoned the original idea of ​​filling it with silicone sealant - it is unknown how “non-conductive” it is at 1.5 GHz):

Now let's move on to USB: since we need a replacement for internal SATA, a two-meter skein from USB-A to USB-B inside the case will obviously be superfluous. We get rid of USB-B - unsolder a piece of the board with connectors and electrolytes (they are only needed when powering a USB DVD drive).

We will connect the adapter to the internal USB connector on the motherboard. Why do we crimp/solder (for 480Mbit/s it is better to solder) the contacts of the PLS-4 connector (it is more convenient, of course, PLD-10, so that it covers the entire comb at once, but only PLS-4 is present in the household):

After checking the pinout of the comb on the motherboard and the pins of the USB converter chip SPIF225A, we assemble:

So, after spending some time searching for the necessary pinouts, we quickly built this type of adapter, which allowed us to pick up a fallen HDD without rebooting and, as a result, thanks to its dimensions and getting rid of atavisms, it fit quite harmoniously into the interior of NASa:

Part II

We strip the copper and solder the holder pins on the back side of the board:

The pitch of the pins of the footprint on the board and the SATA connector is the same, as a result we get a neatly sealed connector:

Let's deal with the USB part. We mark and prepare a place on the board for landing miniUSB-B:

We solder the connector, showing virtuosity when working with a 0.65mm pitch of the miniUSB-B connector:

Some explanations are needed here, so here is the sequence of actions with miniUSB-B:

1. The GND contact, so as not to get in the way (the material of the legs is fragile - the leg of the first connector broke off when bent), bend it up and solder it to the body - then solder the body to the GND of the board;
2. The ID pin is not used, so we simply pull it out of the connector with tweezers;
3. Now it’s a little freer - there are three pins left - they need to be carefully moved apart with tweezers so that there is more space for maneuvering the soldering iron;
4. We solder small extension conductors to the D- and Vbus pins, and slightly raise the inputs themselves so that they do not short-circuit to the board after installation;
5. We leave pin D+ “as is” - physically, during installation, it falls on the corresponding polygon on the board;
6. Now you can mount the connector on the board - grab the housing diagonally, then carefully deal with D- and Vbus.

The second version of the adapter turned out to be much more aesthetically pleasing:

Small touch

We unsolder the 10K resistor (PullUp to suppress interference on the TriState-pin?) and solder in a chain of series-connected R and LED. A resistor with a value of hundreds of ohms (I took 1 kOhm), an LED cathode to pin 36 of the microcircuit (determined by testing or documentation):

Bottom line

To access content from a PC or laptop hard drive via USB, you will need a special device - an adapter.
The connection is not complicated, the main thing is the presence of a special device. There are several types of devices that allow you to connect HDD(hard drive, HDD) desktop computer or laptop to USB and open its contents. Here are the two most popular: a universal USB controller (for example, AGESTAR FUBCP) or a case adapter (SATA External case, ITEC MySafe Advance and others).

In China you can buy the following devices that are built-in instead of a laptop disk drive:

There are also combined options with a complete set (adapter, cord, power supply).

The advantages of the first one are that such a device is cheaper than a case adapter, and often supports several types of connections (SATA, IDE). However, using a regular hard drive as a portable drive with it is problematic, since it will not be protected by anything.

The second option is a case adapter, which is specifically designed to turn a hard drive into portable device memory with a sufficiently large capacity, since the case will reliably protect against dust and mechanical damage. But at the same time, the versatility of the device suffers: before purchasing, you will have to decide which connector the purchased adapter will support.

Using a hard drive in a cased version is a fairly simple procedure, so let’s look at how to connect and open a hard drive via USB using a universal adapter (using the example of AGESTAR FUBCP).

Connection procedure

The first thing you need to do is determine the type of HDD connector that you plan to connect via USB. Plugs come in the following types:

SATA (a more modern connector, used in newly built PCs and laptops);

IDE (can be found mainly in “experienced” PCs).

We will consider the connection using the example of AGESTAR FUBCP, since it supports both “old” and modern HDDs. The average cost of such a device in Russian electronics stores is about 1,500 rubles.

The device is equipped with three interfaces (plugs):

• SATA (7-pin plug).
• IDE 40pin (40-pin plug, for IDE 3.5″).
• IDE 44pin (respectively, 44-pin plug, for IDE 1.8″/2.5″).

Description of AGESTAR FUBCP connectors below.

Step-by-step connection of HDD to computer

So, we have determined the connector of the connected hard drive; now it needs to be connected to the corresponding connector on the device. After that, insert the USB connector for data transfer (black) into the USB port of your computer or laptop. If we are working with a laptop hard drive (2.5”), we can turn on the adapter, and the HDD should appear in the list of computer drives. Sometimes, with such a connection, the hard drive may not have enough power and will not be detected by the system. In this case, turn off and connect the red USB connector of the adapter to any of the computer ports and turn on the adapter again.

If the connected hard drive was previously installed in a PC (3.5” format), the power supply from your PC’s USB will not be enough for it. The AGESTAR FUBCP comes with a power supply for 3.5" hard drives. To open the hard drive via USB, first connect it to the appropriate connector (IDE/SATA), then insert the black USB cable into one of the USB ports of the computer, then connect to the adapter a power supply that operates on 220 V (plug it into a power outlet) .

After all cables are securely connected, turn on the adapter. The connection is complete, the hdd will be detected by the computer, and you can work with it.

09.07.2015

Greetings to you friends, readers and visitors of my blog. In this article I will talk about sata cable. As you know, all manufacturers computer technology have long switched to sata power supply.

This article will describe all the nuances of creating sata cable or else it is called sata adapter, with your own hands. And so let's begin the process.

To begin with, we need a non-working one. And you need to remove the longest one from the power supply sata cable.

Most long cable It is desirable, but if this is not available, of course a short one is possible.

In most cases it happens that sata There is some other connector attached to the cable. You can leave it on and remove it if you don’t need it or get in the way for some reason.

In my case, two wires on the additional connector were cut off and in order to get rid of the unnecessary Molex connector I had to disassemble the sata adapter.

Sata cable disassembly

This connector is very easy to disassemble. All the wires on the sat are on plastic clips that need to be lifted with the tip of a pair of scissors.

Without letting go, pull the wire back; without force and without damage, the wire is carefully removed from the connector.

To cut off the excess wires from the Molex, I use a tool in the form of wire cutters from the women's manicure set. You can also use small electrical wire cutters.

Once all the excess wires are cut off, insert the wires into place. Be careful when removing wires, do not remove them all at once, otherwise you will get confused.

Remove one wire, cut off the excess and insert it back. And we clean the cut ends of the wires for soldering.

Molex disassembly

We will connect the cable made using sata to our computer power supply via a Molex connector

To do this you will have to disassemble the molex connector itself. We take the free Molex connector on the power supply and disassemble it. The lugs on the wires in Molex have tabs or tabs that hold them in the connector itself. To remove the four wires we need to find these tabs and bend them inside the tip. To find this ear, use a bright flashlight.

If the ear is not located, use a thin screwdriver or scissors around the tip

Once all the wires are removed, you need to solder the cleaned ends of the sata cable wires. Solder each wire by color. If for some reason you were unable to sing, you can do the following. We take the wires of the sata cable, clean their ends by about 1.5 cm and screw them onto the tip of the molex and twist them so that they do not slip.

As we said above, the tips of the Molex wires are held on the ears in the connector and therefore, before putting the wires in place, you need to bend the eye on each wire

We assemble the molex connector and connect it sata nutrition. All that's left to do is check sata adapter. In my case, everything works to this day.

How to quickly make a sata cable

There is another option to make a sata adapter. To do this, take a sata cable as usual, clean the ends by about 1.5 cm, twist the ends of the wires so that

Attention this method is not safe since at any time the wire can jump out of the plug and short-circuit.

Do not use ordinary glues, otherwise it will be very difficult to disassemble the connector.

For what reason was the article written?

I once encountered cases where there was not enough power on my unit sata cable for power supply due to hard drives.

It would be an option to transfer the cable from one hard drive or go to the store and buy a sata adapter.

But since I like to create things with my own hands, I decided to make this cable myself. And step by step the process went along the flow.

You might be interested

The note outlines in an accessible form simple steps for adapting a USB-to-SATA converter to a form suitable for use using available tools.

Preamble

So, the task is this: connect a SATA screw to a miniITX system in the absence of free SATA.

Part I

As it turned out, the board is not just a USB-to-SATA converter, but is intended for devices such as laptop DVD drives that have a mating connector on board slimSATA(features an additional non-standard power supply). Thus, it was not possible to connect the adapter to ordinary SATA devices and it was thrown into a dark corner of the box for a long time.

So, the adapter contains a slimSATA connector, which includes a standard SATA 7pin female connector (as on connecting cables):

Even if you remove an additional non-standard slimSATA power connector from the board, when inserted into the HDD, the adapter will block access to the HDD power connector (SATA 15pin). There is only one way out - a SATA 7pin connector extension, for which we carefully cut off one of the ends of the standard SATA cable:

Now you can completely remove the slimSATA connector from the adapter board and solder the end of the SATA cable (without mixing up the RX - TX differential pairs!):

To impart mechanical strength to the joint between the cable and the board, it was decided to use PVC electrical tape (I abandoned the original idea of ​​filling it with silicone sealant - it is unknown how “non-conductive” it is at 1.5 GHz):

Now let's move on to USB: since we need a replacement for internal SATA, a two-meter skein from USB-A to USB-B inside the case will obviously be superfluous. We get rid of USB-B - unsolder a piece of the board with connectors and electrolytes (they are only needed when powering a USB DVD drive).

We will connect the adapter to the internal USB connector on the motherboard. Why do we crimp/solder (for 480Mbit/s it is better to solder) the contacts of the PLS-4 connector (it is more convenient, of course, PLD-10, so that it covers the entire comb at once, but only PLS-4 is present in the household):

After checking the pinout of the comb on the motherboard and the pins of the USB converter chip SPIF225A, we assemble:

So, after spending some time searching for the necessary pinouts, we quickly built this type of adapter, which allowed us to pick up a fallen HDD without rebooting and, as a result, thanks to its dimensions and getting rid of atavisms, it fit quite harmoniously into the interior of NASa:

Part II

We strip the copper and solder the holder pins on the back side of the board:

The pitch of the pins of the footprint on the board and the SATA connector is the same, as a result we get a neatly sealed connector:

Let's deal with the USB part. We mark and prepare a place on the board for landing miniUSB-B:

We solder the connector, showing virtuosity when working with a 0.65mm pitch of the miniUSB-B connector:

Some explanations are needed here, so here is the sequence of actions with miniUSB-B:

1. The GND contact, so as not to get in the way (the material of the legs is fragile - the leg of the first connector broke off when bent), bend it up and solder it to the body - then solder the body to the GND of the board;
2. The ID pin is not used, so we simply pull it out of the connector with tweezers;
3. Now it’s a little freer - there are three pins left - they need to be carefully moved apart with tweezers so that there is more space for maneuvering the soldering iron;
4. We solder small extension conductors to the D- and Vbus pins, and slightly raise the inputs themselves so that they do not short-circuit to the board after installation;
5. We leave pin D+ “as is” - physically, during installation, it falls on the corresponding polygon on the board;
6. Now you can mount the connector on the board - grab the housing diagonally, then carefully deal with D- and Vbus.

The second version of the adapter turned out to be much more aesthetically pleasing:

Small touch

We unsolder the 10K resistor (PullUp to suppress interference on the TriState-pin?) and solder in a chain of series-connected R and LED. A resistor with a value of hundreds of ohms (I took 1 kOhm), an LED cathode to pin 36 of the microcircuit (determined by testing or documentation):

Bottom line