Heat-resistant lubricants for printers. Greases for printer thermal units

You can be confident in your choice

1. The main types of lubricants used in Hewlett Packard laser printers.

2. Lubricants of gears of gearboxes, where the latter rotate at medium speed at temperatures up to 80 °C. The load on the gears is uniformly rotating. In this regard, HP lubricant works perfectly. This lubricant is not commercially available. Instead, various lubricants are sold that satisfy the assigned tasks by 50 - 70%. As a rule, sellers have no idea what they are selling, what properties and durability their product has. Thermal film lubricants. HP uses a unique lubricant that is perfectly matched to the application. The lubricant does not flow, has negligible viscosity, does not evaporate, and does not lose its mechanical and chemical properties over the course of years. The thermal film rotates solely due to the pressure of the Teflon-coated rubber shaft and does not have any gears. Works at temperatures up to 240 degrees, has several main types. Lubricant for thermal films is a separate issue. It's not possible to buy it

3. Lubricant used in heater gears (image fusing units). This is the most difficult case. Gears operate with vector or directional load. In addition, gears operate under sudden temperature changes and at speeds much higher than average. From 20 to 120 degrees. HP uses the same lubricants as in paragraph 1. This approach is fundamentally wrong. The lubricant is squeezed out from the teeth and the gears operate no more than 50 - 70,000 copies. The problems with these lubricants are clearly shown in Fig 1, Fig 2.

4. Lubricants for bushings, bearings, Teflon-rubber shafts of stoves. Hewlett Packard, as a rule, does not use any lubricants in the bushings of fusing units. In modern high-speed laser printers, this leads to the fact that after 30 - 60 thousand copies, the bushing is eaten away by 1 - 2 mm, the rubber shaft sags, the film falls to one side and eats up its edge. The gears begin to work at the edges of the teeth with a lot of noise, turning into a loud crack. The printer breaks down and requires repair.

The Oltar company offers the following types of lubricants for printers.

1. For lubricating gears of gearboxes, as well as for lubricating oscillating units of stoves and gears of rubber shafts of fusing units - Molykote EM-50L grease.
Unlike conventional lubricants, the proposed lubricant works up to 150 degrees Celsius, does not thicken over time, is not afraid of temperature changes and does not lose its properties over time. This lubricant can be used on both plastic and metal gears.

2. Lubricant for thermal films of printers, both polymer and aluminum. Lubricant type - Molykote HP-300 Grease. The lubricant works at temperatures up to 280 degrees, does not evaporate, and does not change physical and chemical properties over time. The lubricant does not become sticky and does not slow down the movement of the thermal film, the image is not blurred. The lubricant is universal and can be used both in home-class printers such as HP LJ 1012, and in powerful modern printers such as HP LJ P4515 with a printing speed of 45 sheets per minute. The lubricant is also good because even if the thermal film is punctured, it continues to work. Then, under the influence of toner, other lubricants begin to crystallize and cut the rotating film from the inside.
The lubricant is excellent for bushing rubber shafts of printer stoves; it does not corrode plastic bushings and does not introduce additional heating into the aluminum printer shafts rotating under the influence of high temperatures. The lubricant does not destroy the protective layer - aluminum oxide!

Replacing the thermal film in the HP 3030 laser MFP

Thermal film is an important element of the printer's thermal unit. It is a flexible tube with thin walls. It is made of a special polymer, which is coated on the outside with a Teflon layer. It is also made of brass alloy, which is also coated with a Teflon layer on the outside.

Terpomelka has a limited resource. And after a certain mileage of prints it loses its properties and is destroyed. Failure may also be caused by foreign objects entering the thermal unit. Most often these are staples from a stapler left on reused paper. A sheet of paper with such a bracket, passing through the thermal unit under the pressure of the rubber shaft, damages the thermal film. First, a small hole appears on it, through which the toner gets to the heating element, worsening the friction of the film on the surface of the heating element.

Today on operating table HP3030 MFP with a printing defect “smears the image on the side”

First you need to unscrew the three screws on the back panel. Then remove the side panels. You need to press the lock on the bottom to remove the side cover.

To remove the upper module with the scanner, first separate mechanism 1 and 2.

Disconnect the cartridge drive tab from the upper module

Disconnect the scanner unit cables from the control board.

The scanner unit can now be removed
Then remove the back panel.
To remove the front panel, you need to use a screwdriver to pry it slightly up and pull it forward.
Now we unscrew 6 screws to remove the top cover. (two were not included in the frame) they are behind
Here are the two that were not included in the first frame of the cog.
Before removing the thermal unit (stove), disconnect it from the printer board. The photo shows the thermal unit control connectors
The thermal unit is secured to the printer chassis with three screws. They are indicated in the two photos below.

Once the screws are unscrewed, you can remove the thermal unit by pulling it up.
The photo below shows the image fixing unit (stove, thermal unit). To replace the damaged thermal film in it, it needs to be disassembled. Nothing complicated. Unscrew the two screws to remove the top casing

This is damaged thermal film.

Next, remove the heating element block. Disconnect the presser feet by removing the springs with pliers


When the paws are removed, remove the heating element block with thermal film.


Stuck toner should be cleaned with acetone and a cloth.

This is toner adhering to the area where the thermal film was originally damaged. If the printer is used with damaged film for a long time, it will cause damage to the surface in the rubber shaft (pressure roller). Therefore, the thermal film should be replaced immediately after it is damaged.
There are remnants of thermal film on top, and new on the bottom.
Before installing the thermal film on the heater, it must be lubricated with a special thermal lubricant for printers.

Remove the pressure roller (rubber roller) to check for any remaining pieces of caked-on toner or debris. If necessary, we clean and remove them.
Carefully place the thermal film on the heater block and begin assembling the entire assembly in reverse order.

After the thermal unit is assembled, begin assembling the device in the reverse order.

The principle of replacing thermal film in HP and Canon printers is largely the same. It differs only in the design features of the printer or MFP. Thermal film is a rather fragile element and work on replacing it and assembling the stove should be carried out especially carefully.

This is a sample print before repair. In the place where part of the film moved off the heater, the image was blurred, and the toner from the paper stuck to the heater.
If the film is damaged or destroyed, you can hear extraneous noise in the printer in the form of a rustling bag.

Thank you for your attention.

Once upon a time, a terrible misfortune happened to a working MFP (printer-scanner-copier) - a rupture of the thermal film. From what? Yes, everything is simple - sheets held together with a paper clip were sent for printing. Of course, no one began to look for the culprit, but the printer requires repair - this is what we will do now.
Replacing a thermal pad in a laser printer is not a difficult task, and it can be done even at home - if only you had tools and replacement parts, as well as cleaning fluids and lubricants. However, as elsewhere, there are pitfalls and nuances here, for which it is advisable to be prepared in advance. In this article we will try to reveal all the secrets - how thermal film changes, and also touch a little internal device laser printer.
So, here he is - standing in front of you. We take a Phillips screwdriver in our hands and let's get started!

First, for convenience, remove the paper tray by pressing the two latches on the sides. We press them in (carefully, do not strain them too much - they are small and fragile!), and pull the tray towards you.

Set aside.
Deploying the printer-MFP back towards you, unscrew the two screws holding the side covers, remove them by prying them up with a screwdriver and helping with your fingers

We disconnect the cables leading to the scanning unit, trying not to rip anything out of the board, lift the cover, remove the fasteners, pressing the latches on top

Bend and pull out another fastener

Remove the levers that lift the pressure roller

Pull out the cables, unscrew the grounding bolt

Remove the front cover. To do this, bend the fasteners on the left and right, and, prying from above with a screwdriver, pull it towards you

We unscrew the four screws, turn the MFP with its back towards you, and unscrew the holding back cover screw, unhook it from below, remove it.

We unscrew 2 more bolts holding the top cover and dismantle it. Unscrew the two screws and remove the thrust plate

We disconnect the wires to the stove, remembering where the red wire is attached!

The oven is ready for dismantling! Oh yes we are! Unscrew the screws and gently remove it.

We put aside the body that is unnecessary for now and work on the stove

We see (or not, depending on your luck) a significant piece of thermal film sticking forlornly between the pressure rollers. Here it is, a breakdown. It needs to be changed.
Let's get started!

Remove the fuser cover of the laser printer (in simple terms, “oven”)

We hook the spring on the right, remove it carefully - we protect our eyes and insure ourselves from long searches! It can gallop so far that you will be surprised to find it in a place where, in principle, it cannot be! (we know - we tried it).

We remove the gear on the left and release the next spring with the same precautions. Now you need to get the white power cord of the oven, and then remove the shaft with thermal film.

Remove the leaky thermal film. We take out the thermal heating element itself by carefully removing the black fuser bushing from the side of the power wire. Use a napkin or cloth with a specialized cleaning liquid (you can also use acetone) to remove any remaining burnt toner and grease.

Now there’s not much left (honestly, honestly!), take a new thermal film, return the thermoelement to its place, apply a thin layer of grease for thermal films (less than a millimeter thick), and also lubricate the bushings, having previously cleaned them of the old grease

Let's collect!

The thermal film with its denser end, marked with a black line, is attached to the white power chip so that the rubber roller with its soft gear does not damage it. We wipe the thermal film with isopropanol alcohol to remove fingerprints or grease. We insert it into the grooves, insert the left and right pressure triggers, press them with the plates and tension the springs.

We insert the gear, scroll - the thermal film should rotate! If it does not rotate, check the correct assembly, or you may have to trim the springs by one or two turns.

If the inside of the printer is dirty and filled with toner (this often happens), then it would be great to clean it thoroughly. Glass cleaning spray and wipes are quite suitable for this. We use a vacuum cleaner with a special filter - do not under any circumstances suck up toner with a home vacuum cleaner, small particles of toner, flying through the filter, will float in the air, and this will negatively affect your health!

You can also change the pickup roller if it is worn out and wipe the brake pad, as we do at our company SIT-Master. At this stage, it is advisable to keep track of all the minor but unpleasant defects in the operation of the printer.

The brake pad is removed by unscrewing two bolts from the rear bottom of the printer.

So, we insert the oven, tighten it, in general, we do everything the opposite of how we removed it. In this case, we collected all the important components together, leaving only the side covers on.

Test print... and... oh, horror! The toner bakes VERY poorly. Lubricated with your finger.

No need to panic! Unfortunately, it often happens that the cause of such a defect during printer repair is Lithuanian (non-original) thermal film. In such cases, it helps to either replace the defective thermal film with an original one ( SIT-Master recommends using original parts when repairing printers), or setting the printer driver to a thicker type of printing paper (this option is the least acceptable, due to unnecessary inconvenience on the part of the client). There is a little trick that will help you cope with this problem without having the original thermal film on hand for the printer you need.
So, this is quite easy to fix. Again you need to disassemble the oven (yes, when disassembling it for the first time, you have repeatedly mentioned the inconvenient disassembly and assembly with strong words, but this is not the most difficult oven, you are very lucky), and put about 3 layers of pieces of thermal film on the thermister and thermal fuse, the width of the frame groove for the thermoelement and a length of 2 centimeters.

Let’s assemble (now you are more experienced, and you will assemble it much faster! But don’t get carried away, be careful about assembling, because disassembling it again because you forgot to connect some important component will not make you happy))

We assemble, check the print quality... HURRAY! Everything is perfect!

Congratulations, now you know how to do it)

Departure within Moscow: 400 rub.

Hello.
In this article I will describe the process of replacing thermal film on an HP LJ 1010 printer.
Replacing thermal film on HP LJ 1012, HP LJ 1015 printers is similar.

Let's start with the tool. We will need:
- crosshead screwdriver
- slotted screwdriver
- small pliers
- isopropyl alcohol for cleaning heating elements in the stove
- platenclene - liquid for cleaning rubber surfaces
- thermal film HP 1200 original
- rubber shaft bushings HP LJ 1010 (set of 2 pcs)
- thermal grease HP 300 Molykote

The spare parts necessary for repairs can be purchased from us.

In the photo I also indicated an electric screwdriver. Naturally, you can do without it. But if you are constantly repairing, then it is advisable to buy one. And a magnetic attachment. It's much easier to work this way.
I will dwell separately on the last three points. You can choose other thermal films at your own discretion and desire.
(suitable size), other lubricant... Issues of choice are described quite thoroughly on the Internet. I made this choice for myself.
And I highly recommend it to you. So that you can avoid future problems with “under-baking”, “jams in the oven”, etc.
If the thermal film changes due to wear, then it is better to immediately change the set of bearings (bushings) of the rubber shaft.
In other cases, you need to look at wear. But replacing bushings will definitely never be superfluous.

So. Here's a volunteer. The printout on the right shows a defect in the form of a vertical stripe. In this place, the thermal film has worn out, is deformed, torn, or missing.

The procedure is as follows:
1. Remove the side and top plastic
2. Remove the stove
3. Change the thermal film
4. Clean the printer
5. Putting everything back together

Begin. Turn the printer backwards. Unscrew the three screws.

Now you need to remove the two side covers. To do this, carefully pry them up with a slotted screwdriver from below, above and behind, and remove each one in its own direction and forward. They took it off and put it aside. Now unscrew the two screws that hold the top plastic.
Unscrew the screw of the photodrum gear drive lever. Someone has already repaired this printer. There should be a white clip in place of this screw. It is often lost. And this screw is the way out.
Unscrew it, remove all the top plastic and set it aside.

Turn the printer sideways, disconnect and release the four cables.

Now we need to remove the stove. To do this, unscrew the three screws and disconnect the red wire (pull it up). We release the wires and remove the oven. The photo shows that one screw is missing - someone forgot to tighten it during the previous repair.

We remove the stove. I put it in front of me. Unscrew the two screws and remove the black plastic cover.

From the end, on both sides, remove the springs, remove the pressure plates. After this, remove the thermoelement assembly and place it in front of you.

On the right, carefully remove the black guide along which the thermal film slides. Remove the remaining thermal film. Remove the white 220V connector on the left and carefully remove the ceramic heating element. He's fragile. Be careful!

Now we thoroughly wash everything from the remnants of old grease and toner. Burnt toner can be easily washed off with acetone.
Laundered. We put the ceramic heating element back (contacts to the left towards the white THICK wires). Apply thermal grease in three small piles. Spread evenly over the surface of the heating element.

Now we take a new thermal film. We put it on so that the black ring for removing static is on the same side as the black elastic band of the rubber shaft. On the right, carefully put in place the black plastic guide along which the thermal film slides.

Now remove the rubber shaft. In the place where the thermal film was torn, the film peeled off from the rubber shaft. Therefore, the thermal film must be changed as soon as it is realized that it is deformed. Otherwise, you will have to change the rubber shaft. And this repair is more expensive. If you install an original rubber shaft, it will be much more expensive.
So, we change the rubber shaft. We check the condition of the bushings (rubber shaft bearings). We change it if necessary (if severe wear is noticeable).

After this, we install a new rubber shaft and put the thermoelement assembly with the new thermal film back. We install pressure plates,
Replace the springs on both sides. Don't forget to install the black levers that move the shafts apart.
Please note Special attention to ensure that the wires do not touch the surface of the rotating shafts and are not pinched anywhere!!!

Now we put back the black plastic stove cover and tighten the two screws.

Now the most important thing. We thoroughly clean the printer from dust, toner, paper clips, buttons, pens, and money. Remove and wipe the pickup roller
liquid for rubber.
After that we begin to put it back together.
We put the stove in place and tighten the three screws.

Reinsert the red wire.

We lay and connect four cable loops.

We put the top cover in place. Tighten the two fastening screws. We put the drive lever of the photodrum clutch gear in place.
Insert the white clip into place. Or in my case, a screw.

We install the back metal cover. It has special rectangular holes at the bottom for protrusions in the black plastic of the case.

We put on the side covers, start putting them on from the front, and gradually snap them back.
And tighten the three screws.

All. Insert the cartridge. I put down the paper. Turn it on and print a test page. Let's check how it's baking.
We wipe the outside for fingerprints. Let's pack.

We can complete this repair for you!
The cost of repairs is 1200 rubles in a hospital.
Departure within Moscow: 400 rub.
Departure within the Moscow region: 600 rub.
(price includes prevention and all necessary spare parts)