From the ballast of an energy-saving lamp. How to make a power supply from energy-saving lamps. High Power UPS

Currently, so-called energy-saving fluorescent lamps are becoming increasingly widespread. Unlike conventional fluorescent lamps with electromagnetic ballast, energy saving lamps ah with electronic ballast a special circuit is used.

Thanks to this, such lamps can be easily installed in a socket instead of a conventional incandescent light bulb with a standard E27 and E14 base. It is about household fluorescent lamps with electronic ballast that will be discussed further.

Distinctive features of fluorescent lamps from conventional incandescent lamps.

It is not for nothing that fluorescent lamps are called energy-saving, since their use can reduce energy consumption by 20–25%. Their emission spectrum is more consistent with natural daylight. Depending on the composition of the phosphor used, it is possible to produce lamps with different shades of glow, both warmer tones and colder ones. It should be noted that fluorescent lamps are more durable than incandescent lamps. Of course, a lot depends on the quality of the design and manufacturing technology.

Compact fluorescent lamp (CFL) device.

A compact fluorescent lamp with electronic ballast (abbreviated CFL) consists of a bulb, an electronic board and an E27 (E14) socket, with which it is installed in a standard socket.

Inside the case there is a round printed circuit board on which the high frequency converter. The converter at rated load has a frequency of 40 - 60 kHz. As a result of being used quite high frequency conversion, eliminating the “blinking” characteristic of fluorescent lamps with electromagnetic ballast (based on a choke), which operate at a power supply frequency of 50 Hz. The schematic diagram of a CFL is shown in the figure.

According to this concept, mostly fairly cheap models are assembled, for example, those produced under the brand Navigator And ERA. If you use compact fluorescent lamps, then most likely they are assembled according to the above diagram. The spread of the values ​​of the parameters of resistors and capacitors indicated on the diagram actually exists. This is due to the fact that lamps of different wattages use elements with different parameters. Otherwise, the circuit design of such lamps is not much different.

Let's take a closer look at the purpose of the radioelements shown in the diagram. On transistors VT1 And VT2 a high-frequency generator has been assembled. Silicon high-voltage transistors are used as transistors VT1 and VT2 n-p-n MJE13003 series transistors in TO-126 package. Typically, only the digital index 13003 is indicated on the housing of these transistors. MPSA42 transistors in a smaller TO-92 format package or similar high-voltage transistors can also be used.

Miniature symmetrical dinistor DB3 (VS1) serves to autostart the converter at the moment of power supply. Externally, the DB3 dinistor looks like a miniature diode. An autostart circuit is necessary, because the converter is assembled according to a circuit with feedback by current and therefore does not start itself. In low-power lamps, the dinistor may be absent altogether.

Diode bridge made on elements VD1 – VD4 serves to rectify alternating current. Electrolytic capacitor C2 smoothes out the ripples of the rectified voltage. The diode bridge and capacitor C2 are the simplest network rectifier. From capacitor C2, constant voltage is supplied to the converter. The diode bridge can be designed as individual elements(4 diodes), or a diode assembly can be used.

During its operation, the converter generates high-frequency interference, which is undesirable. Capacitor C1, choke (inductor) L1 and resistor R1 prevent the spread of high-frequency interference through the electrical network. In some lamps, apparently to save money :) a wire jumper is installed instead of L1. Also, many models do not have a fuse FU1, which is indicated in the diagram. In such cases, the breaking resistor R1 also plays the role of a simple fuse. In case of malfunction electronic circuit The current consumed exceeds a certain value, and the resistor burns out, breaking the circuit.

Throttle L2 usually assembled at Sh-shaped ferrite magnetic core and looks like a miniature armored transformer. On the printed circuit board this inductor takes up quite an impressive amount of space. The inductor winding L2 contains 200 - 400 turns of wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm. You can also find a transformer on the printed circuit board, which is indicated on the diagram as T1. Transformer T1 is assembled on a ring magnetic core with an outer diameter of about 10 mm. The transformer has 3 windings wound with mounting or winding wire with a diameter of 0.3 - 0.4 mm. The number of turns of each winding ranges from 2 - 3 to 6 - 10.

The fluorescent lamp bulb has 4 leads from 2 spirals. The leads of the spirals are connected to the electronic board using the cold twist method, that is, without soldering and are screwed onto rigid wire pins that are soldered into the board. In low-power lamps with small dimensions, the leads of the spirals are soldered directly into the electronic board.

Repair of household fluorescent lamps with electronic ballast.

Manufacturers of compact fluorescent lamps claim that their lifespan is several times longer than that of conventional incandescent lamps. But despite this, household fluorescent lamps with electronic ballast fail quite often.

This is due to the fact that they use electronic components that are not designed to withstand overloads. It is also worth noting the high percentage of defective products and low quality workmanship. Compared to incandescent lamps, the cost of fluorescent lamps is quite high, so repairing such lamps is justified at least for personal purposes. Practice shows that the cause of failure is mainly a malfunction of the electronic part (converter). After a simple repair, the performance of the CFL is completely restored and this allows you to reduce financial costs.

Before we start talking about CFL repairs, let’s touch on the topic of ecology and safety.

Despite their positive qualities, fluorescent lamps are harmful to both the environment and human health. The fact is that there are mercury vapors in the flask. If it is broken, dangerous mercury vapors will enter the environment and, possibly, the human body. Mercury is classified as a substance 1st hazard class .

If the flask is damaged, you must leave the room for 15–20 minutes and immediately forcefully ventilate the room. You must be careful when using any fluorescent lamps. It should be remembered that mercury compounds used in energy-saving lamps are more dangerous than ordinary metallic mercury. Mercury can remain in the human body and cause harm to health.

In addition to this disadvantage, it should be noted that the emission spectrum of a fluorescent lamp contains harmful ultraviolet radiation. If you stay close to a fluorescent lamp for a long time, skin irritation is possible, as it is sensitive to ultraviolet radiation.

The presence of highly toxic mercury compounds in the bulb is the main motive of environmentalists who call for reducing the production of fluorescent lamps and switching to safer LED lamps.

Disassembling a fluorescent lamp with electronic ballast.

Despite the ease of disassembling a compact fluorescent lamp, you should be careful not to break the bulb. As already mentioned, there are mercury vapors inside the flask, which are hazardous to health. Unfortunately, the strength of glass flasks is low and leaves much to be desired.

In order to open the housing where the electronic circuit of the converter is located, it is necessary to release the plastic latch that holds the two plastic parts of the housing together with a sharp object (a narrow screwdriver).

Next, you should disconnect the leads of the spirals from the main electronic circuit. It is better to do this with narrow pliers, picking up the end of the spiral wire output and unwinding the turns from the wire pins. After this, it is better to place the glass flask in a safe place to prevent it from breaking.

The remaining electronic board is connected by two conductors to the second part of the housing, on which a standard E27 (E14) base is mounted.

Restoring the functionality of lamps with electronic ballast.

When restoring a CFL, the first thing you should do is check the integrity of the filaments (spirals) inside the glass bulb. The integrity of the filaments can be easily checked using a regular ohmmeter. If the resistance of the threads is low (a few ohms), then the thread is working. If during measurement the resistance is infinitely high, then the filament has burned out and it is impossible to use the flask in this case.

The most vulnerable components of an electronic converter made on the basis of the circuit already described (see circuit diagram) are capacitors.

If the fluorescent lamp does not turn on, then capacitors C3, C4, C5 should be checked for breakdown. When overloaded, these capacitors fail because the applied voltage exceeds the voltage for which they are designed. If the lamp does not turn on, but the bulb glows in the area of ​​the electrodes, then capacitor C5 may be broken.

In this case, the converter is working properly, but since the capacitor is broken, a discharge does not occur in the bulb. Capacitor C5 is included in an oscillatory circuit, in which, at the moment of startup, a high-voltage pulse occurs, leading to the appearance of a discharge. Therefore, if the capacitor is broken, the lamp will not be able to switch to operating mode normally, and a glow caused by heating of the spirals will be observed in the area of ​​the spirals.

Cold And hot mode starting fluorescent lamps.

There are two types of household fluorescent lamps:

With cold start

With hot start

If the CFL lights up immediately after switching on, then it has a cold start. This mode The bad thing is that in this mode the cathodes of the lamp are not preheated. This can lead to burnout of the filaments due to the flow of a current pulse.

For fluorescent lamps it is more preferable hot start. During a hot start, the lamp lights up smoothly within 1-3 seconds. During these few seconds, the filaments heat up. It is known that a cold filament has less resistance than a heated filament. Therefore, during a cold start, a significant current pulse passes through the filament, which can eventually cause it to burn out.

For ordinary incandescent lamps, a cold start is standard, so many people know that they burn out just the moment they are turned on.

To implement hot start in lamps with electronic ballast, the following circuit is used. A posistor (PTC - thermistor) is connected in series with the filaments. In the circuit diagram, this posistor will be connected in parallel with capacitor C5.

At the moment of switching on, as a result of resonance, a high voltage appears on the capacitor C5, and, consequently, on the electrodes of the lamp, necessary for its ignition. But in this case, the filaments are poorly heated. The lamp turns on instantly. In this case, a posistor is connected in parallel with C5. At the moment of startup, the posistor has a low resistance and the quality factor of the L2C5 circuit is significantly lower.

As a result, the resonance voltage is below the ignition threshold. Within a few seconds the posistor heats up and its resistance increases. At the same time, the filaments also heat up. The quality factor of the circuit increases and, consequently, the voltage at the electrodes increases. A smooth hot start of the lamp occurs. In operating mode, the posistor has a high resistance and does not affect the operating mode.

It is not uncommon that this particular posistor fails, and the lamp simply does not turn on. Therefore, when repairing lamps with ballast, you should pay attention to it.

Quite often, the low-resistance resistor R1 burns out, which, as already mentioned, plays the role of a fuse.

Active elements such as transistors VT1, VT2, rectifier bridge diodes VD1 - VD4 are also worth checking. As a rule, the cause of their malfunction is an electrical breakdown. p-n transitions. Dinistor VS1 and electrolytic capacitor C2 rarely fail in practice.

Powerful LEDs in lighting devices are connected through electronic drivers that stabilize the current at their output.

Nowadays, so-called energy-saving fluorescent lamps (compact fluorescent lamps - CFLs) have become widespread. But over time, they fail. One of the causes of the malfunction is burnout of the lamp filament. Do not rush to dispose of such lamps because the electronic board contains many components that can be used in the future in other homemade devices. These are chokes, transistors, diodes, capacitors. Typically, these lamps have a functional electronic board, which makes it possible to use them as a power supply or driver for an LED. As a result, we thus obtain free driver for connecting LEDs, this is all the more interesting.

You can watch the process of making homemade products in the video:

List of tools and materials
-energy saving fluorescent lamp;
-screwdriver;
- soldering iron;
-tester;
-white LED 10W;
-enamel wire with a diameter of 0.4 mm;
-thermal paste;
- diodes of the HER, FR, UF brand for 1-2A
-desk lamp.

Step one. Disassembling the lamp.
We disassemble the energy-saving fluorescent lamp by carefully prying it with a screwdriver. The lamp bulb cannot be broken as there is mercury vapor inside. We call the filament of the bulb with a tester. If at least one thread shows a break, then the bulb is faulty. If there is a working similar lamp, then you can connect the bulb from it to the electronic board being converted to make sure that it is in working order.

It is also possible to power LEDs of lower power by selecting the required voltage by the number of turns on the inductor.
I mounted wire jumpers on the pins to connect the lamp filaments.

Diagram of the converted electronic converter board. As a result, from the inductor we get a transformer with a connected rectifier. Added components are shown in green.

Is it possible to make an LED lamp operating on 220 volts from start to finish with your own hands? It turns out that it is possible. Our tips and instructions will help you in this exciting activity.

Advantages of LED lamps

LED lighting in the home is not just modern, but also stylish and bright. Conservative fans of incandescent lamps are left with weak “Ilyich bulbs” - the federal law“On Energy Saving”, adopted in 2009, from January 1, 2011, prohibits the production, import and sale of incandescent lamps with a power of more than 100 W. Advanced users have long switched to compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs). But LEDs outperform all their predecessors:

• the energy consumption of an LED lamp is 10 times less than that of a corresponding incandescent lamp, and almost 35% less than that of a CFL;
• the power of light LED lamps more by 8 and 36%, respectively;
• achieving full luminous flux power occurs instantly, unlike CFLs, which require about 2 minutes;
• the cost - provided that the lamp is manufactured independently - tends to zero;
• LED lamps are environmentally friendly because they do not contain mercury;
• LED service life is measured in tens of thousands of hours. Therefore, LED lamps are practically eternal.

Dry numbers confirm: LED is the future.

Design of a modern factory LED lamp

The LED here is initially assembled from many crystals. Therefore, in order to assemble such a lamp, you do not need to solder numerous contacts, you only need to connect one pair.

LED lamp consists of a base, driver, radiator, LED itself and diffuser

Types of LEDs

LED is a semiconductor multilayer crystal with an electron-hole junction. By passing direct current through it, we receive light radiation. An LED also differs from a conventional diode in that if it is connected incorrectly, it immediately burns out, since it has a low breakdown voltage (several volts). If an LED burns out, it must be completely replaced; repair is impossible.

There are four main types of LEDs:

A homemade and properly assembled LED lamp will serve for many years, and it can be repaired.

Before you begin self-assembly, you need to choose a power supply method for our future lamp. There are many options: from a battery to a 220 volt AC network - through a transformer or directly.

The easiest way is to assemble a 12-volt LED from a burnt-out halogen. But it will require a fairly massive external power supply. A lamp with a regular base, designed for a voltage of 220 volts, fits any socket in the house.

Therefore, in our guide we will not consider creating a 12-volt LED light source, but will show a couple of options for designing a 220-volt lamp.

Since we do not know the level of your electrical technical training, we cannot guarantee that you will end up with a properly functioning device. In addition, you will be working with life-threatening voltages and if things are not done accurately and incorrectly, damage and loss may occur, for which we will not be held responsible. Therefore, be careful and attentive. And you will succeed.

Drivers for LED lamps

The brightness of LEDs directly depends on the strength of the current passing through them. For stable operation, they need a constant voltage source and a stabilized current that does not exceed the maximum permissible value for them.

Resistors - current limiters - can only be used for low-power LEDs. You can simplify the simple calculation of the number and characteristics of resistors by finding an LED calculator on the Internet, which not only displays data, but also creates a ready-made electrical diagram designs.

To power the lamp from the mains, you must use a special driver that converts the input alternating voltage into a working voltage for the LEDs. The simplest drivers consist of a minimum number of parts: an input capacitor, several resistors and a diode bridge.

In the simplest driver circuit, the supply voltage is supplied through a limiting capacitor to the rectifier bridge, and then to the lamp

Powerful LEDs are connected through electronic drivers that control and stabilize the current and have a high efficiency (90-95%). They provide stable current even with sudden changes in the supply voltage in the network. Resistors cannot do this.

Let's look at the simplest and most commonly used drivers for LED lamps:

• the linear driver is quite simple and is used for low (up to 100 mA) operating currents or in cases where the source voltage is equal to the voltage drop across the LED;
• The switching buck driver is more complex. It allows powerful LEDs to be powered by a source much more high voltage than is necessary for their work. Disadvantages: large size and electromagnetic interference generated by the inductor;
• A switching boost driver is used when the operating voltage of the LED is greater than the voltage received from the power supply. The disadvantages are the same as the previous driver.

An electronic driver is always built into any 220-volt LED lamp to ensure optimal operation.

Most often, several faulty LED lamps are disassembled, the burnt-out LEDs and radio components of the driver are removed, and one new structure is installed from the intact ones.

But you can make an LED lamp from a regular CFL. This is quite an attractive idea. We are sure that many zealous owners keep faulty “energy savers” in their drawers with parts and spare parts. It’s a shame to throw it away, there’s nowhere to use it. Now we will tell you how to create an LED lamp from an energy-saving lamp (E27 base, 220 V) in just a couple of hours.

A faulty CFL always gives us a high-quality base and housing for LEDs. In addition, it is usually the gas discharge tube that fails, but not electronic device to “ignite” it. We again put the working electronics into storage: they can be disassembled, and in capable hands these parts will still serve something good.

Types of modern lamp bases

The base is a threaded system for quickly connecting and fixing the light source and socket, supplying power to the source from the mains and ensuring the tightness of the vacuum flask. The marking of the socles is deciphered as follows:

1. The first letter of the marking indicates the type of base:
   • B - with pin;
   • E - with thread (developed back in 1909 by Edison);
   • F - with one pin;
   • G - with two pins;
   • H - for xenon;
   • K and R - with cable and recessed contact, respectively;
   • P - focusing base (for spotlights and lanterns);
   • S - soffit;
   • T - telephone;
   • W - with contact inputs in the glass of the bulb.
2. The second letter U, A or V shows which lamps use the base: energy-saving, automotive or with a conical end.
3. The numbers following the letters indicate the diameter of the base in millimeters.

The most common base since Soviet times is E27 - a threaded base with a diameter of 27 mm for a voltage of 220 V.

Creating an E27 LED lamp from an energy-saving one using a ready-made driver

To make your own LED lamp we will need:

1. Failed CFL lamp.
2. Pliers.
3. Soldering iron.
4. Solder.
5. Cardboard.
6. Head on shoulders.
7. Skillful hands.

We will convert the faulty Cosmos CFL to LED.

“Cosmos” is one of the most popular brands of modern energy-saving lamps, so many zealous owners will definitely have several of its faulty copies.

Step-by-step instructions for making an LED lamp

1. We find a faulty energy-saving lamp, which we have had for a long time “just in case.” Our lamp has a power of 20 W. For now, the main component we are interested in is the base.
2. We carefully disassemble the old lamp and remove everything from it except the base and the wires coming from it, with which we will then connect the finished driver by soldering. The lamp is assembled using latches protruding above the body. You need to look at them and use something to pry them off. Sometimes the base is attached to the body in a more complicated way - by punching pinholes around the circumference. Here you will have to drill out the core points or carefully saw through them with a hacksaw. One supply wire is soldered to the central contact of the base, the second to the thread. Both of them are very short. The tubes may burst during these manipulations, so you must act carefully.
3. We clean the base and degrease it with acetone or alcohol. Particular attention should be paid to the hole, which we also carefully clean from excess solder. This is necessary for further soldering in the base.

   

   Trigger board for gas discharge tube built into fluorescent lamp, will not suit us for creating an LED device

4. The cap of the base has six holes - gas-discharge tubes were attached to them. We use these holes for our LEDs. Let's put it under top part a circle of the same diameter cut out with nail scissors from a suitable piece of plastic. Thick cardboard will also work. It will fix the contacts of the LEDs.

   

   On the reverse side, the base has six round holes into which we will install LEDs

5. We have HK6 multi-chip LEDs (voltage 3.3 V, power 0.33 W, current 100-120 mA). Each diode is assembled from six crystals (connected in parallel), so it shines brightly, although it is not called powerful. Considering the power of these LEDs, we connect them three in parallel.

   

   Each LED shines quite brightly on its own, so six of them in the lamp will provide good light intensity

6. We connect both chains in series.

   

   Two chains of three parallel-connected LEDs are each connected in series

The result is a rather beautiful design.



Six LEDs inserted into the sockets form a powerful and uniform light source

7. A simple ready-made driver can be taken from a broken LED lamp. Now, to connect six white one-watt LEDs, we use a 220-volt driver, for example, RLD2-1.

   

   The driver is connected to the LEDs in a parallel circuit

8. We insert the driver into the socket. We place another cut-out circle of plastic or cardboard between the board and the driver to avoid short circuits between the LED contacts and the driver parts. The lamp does not heat up, so any gasket will do.

   

   A positive difference between Chinese bases and Russian ones: they solder much better

9. Let's assemble our lamp and check if it works.

   

   After assembling the lamp, you need to connect it to a voltage source and make sure that it lights up

We created a source with a luminous intensity of approximately 150-200 lm and a power of approximately 3 W, similar to a 30-watt incandescent lamp. But due to the fact that our lamp has a white glow, it visually looks brighter. The area of ​​the room illuminated by it can be increased by bending the LED leads. In addition, we received a wonderful bonus: the three-watt lamp does not even need to be turned off - the meter practically does not “see” it.

Creating an LED lamp using a homemade driver

It is much more interesting not to use a ready-made driver, but to make it yourself. Of course, if you are good with a soldering iron and have basic skills in reading electrical diagrams.

We'll look at etching the board after drawing the schematic on it by hand. And, of course, everyone will be interested in tinkering with chemical reactions using available chemicals. As in childhood.

We will need:

1. A piece of copper foil on both sides of fiberglass.
2. The elements of our future lamp according to the generated diagram: resistors, capacitor, LEDs.
3. Drill or mini-drill for drilling fiberglass.
4. Pliers.
5. Soldering iron.
6. Solder and rosin.
7. Nail polish or correction pencil.
8. Table salt, copper sulfate or ferric chloride solution.
9. Head on shoulders.
10. Skillful hands.
11. Accuracy and attentiveness.

Textolite is used in cases where electrical insulating properties are required. This is a multilayer plastic, the layers of which consist of fabric (depending on the type of fibers of the fabric layer, there are basalt textolites, carbon textolites, and others) and a binder (polyester resin, bakelite, etc.):

• Fiberglass is fiberglass fabric impregnated with epoxy resin. It is characterized by high resistivity and heat resistance - from 140 to 1800 o C;
• foil fiberglass is a material covered with a layer of galvanic copper foil 35-50 microns thick. It is used to make printed circuit boards. The thickness of the composite is from 0.5 to 3 mm, the sheet area is up to 1 m 2.

Foil-coated fiberglass laminate is used for the manufacture of printed circuit boards.

Driver circuit for LED lamp

It is quite possible to make a driver for an LED lamp yourself, for example, based on the simplest circuit that we looked at at the beginning of the article. You just need to add a few details:

1. Resistor R3 to discharge the capacitor when the power is turned off.
2. A pair of zener diodes VD2 and VD3 to bypass the capacitor if the LED circuit burns out or breaks.

If we select the stabilization voltage correctly, we can limit ourselves to one zener diode. If we set the voltage to more than 220 V, and choose a capacitor for it, then we will do without any additional parts at all. But the driver will be larger in size, and the board may not fit in the base.

This circuit allows you to make a driver for a lamp of 20 LEDs

We created this circuit to make a lamp from 20 LEDs. If there are more or less of them, you need to select a different capacitance for capacitor C1 so that a current of 20 mA still passes through the LEDs.

The driver will lower the network voltage and try to smooth out voltage surges. Through a resistor and a current-limiting capacitor, the mains voltage is supplied to a diode-based bridge rectifier. Through another resistor, a constant voltage is supplied to the LED block, and they begin to shine. The ripples of this rectified voltage are smoothed out by a capacitor, and when the lamp is disconnected from the network, the first capacitor is discharged by another resistor.

It will be more convenient if the driver design is mounted using a printed circuit board, and is not some kind of lump in the air made of wires and parts. You can easily make the payment yourself.

Step-by-step instructions for making an LED lamp with a homemade driver

1. Using a computer program, we generate our own pattern for etching the board according to the intended driver design. Very convenient and popular among radio amateurs, free computer program Sprint Layout, which allows you to independently design printed circuit boards of low complexity and obtain an image of their layout. There is another beautiful one domestic program- DipTrace, which draws not only boards, but also circuit diagrams.
   

   

   The free computer program Sprint Layout generates a detailed board etch pattern for the driver

2. We cut out a circle with a diameter of 3 cm from fiberglass. This will be our board.
3. We choose a method for transferring the circuit to the board. All methods are terribly interesting. Can:
   • draw a diagram directly on a piece of fiberglass with a stationery correction pencil or a special marker for printed circuit boards, which is sold in a radio parts store. There is a subtlety here: only this marker allows you to draw tracks less than or equal to 1 mm. In other cases, the width of the track, no matter how hard you try, will not be less than 2 mm. And the copper patches for soldering will turn out sloppy. Therefore, after applying the design, you need to correct it with a razor or scalpel;
   • print the diagram on inkjet printer on photo paper and iron the printout to the fiberglass. The circuit elements will be covered with paint;
   • draw a diagram with nail polish, which is definitely in any house where a woman lives. This is the simplest method, and we will use it. Carefully and carefully, using a brush from a bottle, draw tracks on the board. We wait until the varnish dries well.
4. We dilute the solution: stir 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate and 2 tablespoons of table salt in boiling water. Copper sulfate is used in agriculture, so it can be bought in gardening and construction stores.
5. We immerse the board in the solution for half an hour. As a result, only the copper traces that we protected with varnish will remain; the rest of the copper will disappear during the reaction.
6. Use acetone to remove the remaining varnish from the fiberglass laminate. You immediately need to tin (coat with solder using a soldering iron) the edges of the board and the contact points so that the copper does not quickly oxidize.

   

   The contact points are soldered with a layer of solder mixed with rosin to protect the copper tracks from oxidation

7. According to the diagram, we make holes with a drill.
8. We solder the LEDs and all the details of the homemade driver on the board from the side of the printed tracks.
9. Install the board into the lamp body.

   

   After all the operations performed, you should get an LED lamp equivalent to a 100-watt incandescent lamp

Safety Notes

1. Although assembling an LED lamp yourself is not a very difficult process, you should not even start it if you do not have at least basic electrical knowledge. Otherwise, the lamp you assembled with internal short circuit can damage the entire electrical network of your home, including expensive electrical appliances. The specificity of LED technology is that if some elements of its circuit are connected incorrectly, then an explosion is even possible. So you have to be extremely careful.
2. Typically the luminaires are used at 220 VAC. But designs designed for a voltage of 12 V cannot be connected to a regular network under any circumstances, and you must always remember this.
3. In the process of making a homemade LED lamp, the components of the lamp often cannot be immediately completely isolated from the 220 V supply network. Therefore, you can be seriously shocked. Even if the structure is connected to the network via a power supply, it is quite possible that it has simple diagram without transformer and galvanic isolation. Therefore, you should not touch the structure with your hands until the capacitors are discharged.
4. If the lamp does not work, then in most cases poor-quality soldering of parts is to blame. You were inattentive or hurriedly used the soldering iron. But don't despair. Keep trying!

Video: learning to solder

It’s a strange thing: in our age, when stores have absolutely everything, usually inexpensive and very varied, after twenty years of euphoria, people are increasingly returning to doing household things with their own hands. Handicrafts, carpentry and plumbing skills flourished beyond belief. And simple applied electrical engineering is confidently returning to this series.

You need to start saving energy from the very beginning - by installing lamps that will help save energy. But unfortunately, the service life of such products is shorter than what the manufacturers indicate on the packaging. There are cases when such lamps last for about six months. Therefore, the question of repairing and converting energy-saving lamps into LEDs is very relevant in our time.

Of all the variety existing systems lighting, the use of LED lamps remains the most effective, convenient, profitable and environmentally friendly. Therefore, they are becoming increasingly popular in our modern apartments.

How to make an LED lamp from an energy-saving lamp

Converting an energy-saving lamp into an LED lamp is possible from almost any version of an old non-working lamp. To do this, you need to remove the internal boards of the converters and replace it with a circuit to reduce the supply voltages of the LED elements. At the same time, we set the current for the LED and set the resistor to 100 to 200 Ohms.

In order to create an energy-saving LED lamp with your own hands, first, you need to disassemble the product. When disassembling, it is necessary to remove the board with converters and the lamp itself. This is best done with a small screwdriver.

Most often, failure of an energy-saving lamp occurs due to its burnout. After disassembly, the cartridge and base should remain. The assembled circuit with LED and reflectors is installed on them. Then LEDs with their required quantity are attached to the lamp.

When creating an LED lamp at home, it is important to use high-quality LED lamps so that they shine brightly and perform all the necessary functions.

Of course, you can buy yourself a ready-made LED product, but their cost is quite high, unlike standard incandescent, fluorescent or energy-saving lamps.

In order to create an energy-saving LED lamp with your own hands, you will need:

• Any old non-working lamp.
• Fiberglass to connect parts together. There are other options for attaching LEDs without soldering.
• Additional elements that are in the circuit, which necessarily contain LEDs. In order to save as much as possible, use all available means.
• Capacitors that are suitable for a maximum voltage of 400 volts.
• Required number of LEDs. The more LEDs, the brighter the lamp will shine. It is important to consider the size of the room in which the lamp will be located.
• Glue for fixing LEDs. The LEDs are attached to the main lamp using heat-resistant glue. All work must be done very carefully.

It doesn’t take much time to turn an energy-saving lamp into an LED one. Everything can be done within 30 minutes. As a result, you will receive a bright and economical lamp and will be able to repair your broken product, which you no longer use. All actions must be performed carefully and slowly in order for the work to be of the highest quality.